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Dessert

Ice Cream

A chilled dessert made by boiling milk with arrowroot, sugar, and lemon peel, then mixing with cream and lemon juice.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Ice Cream

Why it works: Arrowroot and lemon match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 4% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 553 recipes. Both carry coumarin, which smells sweet, hay. The science ↓

Ice Cream

Ingredients

Directions

Make the custard base

  1. Wet the arrowroot with a little cold milk.

  2. Add the arrowroot to the boiling milk.

  3. Sweeten the mixture very sweet with white sugar.

  4. Add the grated lemon peel.

  5. Boil the whole mixture.

  6. Strain the mixture into the quart of cream.

Freeze without a machine

  1. If you don't have a freezing apparatus, put the cream in a tightly covered tin pail.

  2. Mix equal quantities of snow and fine salt or pounded ice and salt in a tub.

  3. Place the pail in the mixture.

  4. Turn the pail half round and back again with one hand for half an hour.

  5. Stop four or five times to mix the frozen part with the rest thoroughly.

  6. When partly frozen, add the juice of the two lemons.

  7. Add the lemon juice.

  8. Cover the freezer tightly with snow and salt until needed.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Photo for illustrative purposes only · Contact us to use it

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Arrowroot + lemontop 4% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together553 recipes

    Shared aroma: coumarin (sweet, hay).

  2. Cream + sugartop 9% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together43,450 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2,3-butanedione (butter, sweet).

  3. Milk + lemontop 15% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together19,053 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).

  4. Milk + creamtop 18% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together29,399 recipes

    Shared aroma: delta-dodecalactone (sweet, creamy).

  5. Milk + arrowroottop 18% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together817 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-methylbutyraldehyde (malty, chocolate).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Arrowroot
Thickens the milk mixture so the finished ice cream is smooth and not icy.
Milk
Forms the liquid base that the arrowroot thickens and the sugar sweetens.
Thick cream
Adds fat, which makes the ice cream rich and creamy in texture.
White sugar
Sweetens the base and also lowers the freezing point, keeping the ice cream softer.
Lemon juice
Adds acidity that gives a bright, tart flavour.

The step that matters

Adding the lemon juice when partly frozen. Acid added to a liquid base can curdle or thin cream and interrupts freezing. Adding the juice only once the mixture is partly frozen, then stirring well, keeps the texture smooth and distributes the tartness evenly.

Swap the arrowroot

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (milk, lemon, cream, sugar):

  1. Arrowrootthe original
  2. Potatofits about as well
  3. Sweet potatofits about as well
  4. Asparagusfits less well

Fit is the average pairing score against milk, lemon, cream, sugar. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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