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Dessert

Lemon Taffy

A hard candy made from sugar, vinegar, cream of tartar, water, and lemon extract.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Sugar and cream are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 9% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 43,450 recipes. Both carry 2,3-butanedione, which smells butter, sweet. The science ↓

Lemon Taffy

Ingredients

Directions

Make the taffy

  1. Put the sugar in a clean, bright pan.

  2. Dissolve the cream of tartar in vinegar and pour it over the sugar.

  3. Set the pan on the stove and boil gently.

  4. Test the mixture by dipping a little into cold water; it is done when it breaks off brittle.

Pull and flavor

  1. Pour the mixture onto buttered plates and pull it as soon as it is cool enough.

  2. Add the lemon extract while pulling.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Sugar + creamtop 9% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together43,450 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2,3-butanedione (butter, sweet).

  2. Sugar + vinegartop 15% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together20,806 recipes

    Shared aroma: beta-damascenone (apple, rose).

  3. Sugar + lemontop 18% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together53,532 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).

  4. Vinegar + lemontop 20% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together7,334 recipes

    Shared aroma: acetic acid (sour, vinegar).

  5. Vinegar + creamtop 25% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together4,064 recipes

    Shared aroma: acetic acid (sour, vinegar).

Sugar and lemon barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 53,532 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

White sugar
Forms the bulk of the candy and sets firm as the syrup cools.
Cream of tartar
Acid that helps prevent sugar from crystallizing, keeping the taffy smooth.
Vinegar
Acid that helps prevent sugar from crystallizing, keeping the taffy smooth.

The step that matters

Testing the mixture in cold water. Sugar syrup must reach the right concentration to set brittle. Too little boiling leaves taffy soft and sticky, while too much makes it hard and difficult to pull. A small cold-water test shows when it is ready.

Swap the lemon

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (sugar, vinegar, cream):

  1. Vanillafits better
  2. Strawberryfits better
  3. Raspberryfits better
  4. Lemonthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against sugar, vinegar, cream. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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