Why it works: Milk and butter are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 7% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 81,283 recipes. Both carry (z)-4-heptenal, which smells biscuit, cream. The science ↓
Molasses Squares
Ingredients
Directions
The book says “a hot oven”. The 350°F (175°C) in the steps is the modern equivalent, not the book's own figure.
Make the dough
Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C).
In a bowl, rub together the brown sugar and lard until well combined.
Add the molasses to the mixture and stir well.
Dissolve the baking soda in the sweet milk and add it to the mixture.
Mix the cream of tartar with enough flour to create a stiff dough that can be rolled out.
Shape and bake
Roll out the dough on a floured surface and cut it into squares.
Place the squares on buttered sheet pans.
In a small bowl, mix the egg yolk with the cream and wash the tops of the squares.
Bake in the preheated oven until golden brown.
Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.
Explore the science
The flavor team
The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.
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Milk + buttertop 7% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together81,283 recipes
Shared aroma: (z)-4-heptenal (biscuit, cream).
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Cream + buttertop 8% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together41,516 recipes
Shared aroma: delta-dodecalactone (sweet, creamy).
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Sugar + creamtop 9% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together43,450 recipes
Shared aroma: 2,3-butanedione (butter, sweet).
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Molasses + sugartop 11% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together9,225 recipes
Shared aroma: ethanol (alcoholic, ethereal).
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Flour + buttertop 12% of all pairsSmell alikelowCooked together124,287 recipes
Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).
Flour and butter barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 124,287 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.
Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs
What each ingredient does
- Molasses
- Provides the main sweetness, dark color and rich flavor of the squares.
- Lard
- Adds fat that tenderizes the dough and gives a crumbly texture.
- Baking soda
- Reacts with the acidic molasses and milk to produce gas that makes the squares rise.
- Cream of tartar
- Adds acidity that works with the baking soda to help the squares rise.
- Flour
- Forms the structure of the dough so it stiffens enough to roll and cut.
- Brown sugar
- Adds sweetness and moisture and helps the squares brown.
The step that matters
Dissolve the baking soda in the sweet milk. Baking soda must be fully dissolved before mixing so it spreads evenly through the dough. Unevenly distributed soda leaves pockets that taste bitter and rise unevenly.
“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.
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