Why it works: Butter and milk are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 7% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 81,283 recipes. Both carry (z)-4-heptenal, which smells biscuit, cream. The science ↓
Ham Sandwiches
Ingredients
Directions
Make the dressing
Beat the egg thoroughly in a bowl.
Add cayenne pepper, mustard, and sugar to the egg and mix well.
Melt the butter and add it along with the vinegar to the mixture.
Stir everything together and place in a small double boiler.
Cook until the mixture thickens, then cool it.
Finish and combine
If the mixture is too thick, add a little milk until it reaches a cream-like consistency.
Chop the ham finely and mix it with the dressing.
Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.
Explore the science
The flavor team
The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.
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Butter + milktop 7% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together81,283 recipes
Shared aroma: (z)-4-heptenal (biscuit, cream).
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Mustard + vinegartop 7% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together14,067 recipes
Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).
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Pepper + mustardtop 9% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together15,430 recipes
Shared aroma: 2-isopropyl-3-methoxypyrazine (earthy, pea).
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Pepper + vinegartop 14% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together27,814 recipes
Shared aroma: 4'-methylacetophenone (bitter almond).
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Mustard + hamtop 14% of all pairsSmell alikelowCooked together747 recipes
Shared aroma: 2-acetyl-1-pyrroline (popcorn, roasted).
Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs
What each ingredient does
- Egg
- Thickens the dressing as it cooks and gives it a rich, smooth body.
- Butter
- Adds fat and richness, giving the dressing a smoother mouthfeel.
- Vinegar
- Adds sharp acidity that balances the richness of the egg and butter.
- Sugar
- Adds a mild sweetness that rounds out the sharpness of the vinegar.
- Mustard
- Adds sharp flavor and helps emulsify the dressing.
The step that matters
Cook until the mixture thickens. Egg proteins set when heated, thickening the dressing. Overheating or cooking too fast can scramble the egg, leaving lumps, so heat gently in the double boiler and stir steadily.
Swap the mustard
How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (egg, pepper, sugar, butter, vinegar, milk, ham):
- Capsicumfits about as well
- Mustardthe original
- Potatofits about as well
- Asparagusfits about as well
Fit is the average pairing score against egg, pepper, sugar, butter, vinegar, milk, ham. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.
“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.
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