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Boiled Dressing

A dressing made by boiling eggs, sugar, mustard, salt, pepper, and vinegar, then cooling, straining, and thinning with sour cream.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Mustard and vinegar are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 7% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 14,067 recipes. Both carry isobutyraldehyde, which smells malty, green. The science ↓

Boiled Dressing

Ingredients

Directions

Make the dressing

  1. In the top of a double boiler, mix the eggs (or yolks), sugar, mustard, salt, and white pepper.

  2. Set the double boiler over hot water and add the vinegar, stirring constantly.

  3. Cook until the mixture thickens.

Finish

  1. Cool the dressing and strain it.

  2. If necessary, thin it with sour cream before using.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Mustard + vinegartop 7% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together14,067 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

  2. Sugar + vinegartop 15% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together20,806 recipes

    Shared aroma: beta-damascenone (apple, rose).

  3. Sugar + mustardtop 19% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together8,424 recipes

    Shared aroma: guaiacol (smoky, sweet).

  4. White pepper + vinegartop 20% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together1,154 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

  5. Egg + sugartop 21% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together122,807 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Eggs
Thicken the dressing as they cook and set, giving it body.
Sugar
Adds sweetness to balance the sharpness of the vinegar.
Mustard
Adds sharp flavour and helps season the dressing.
Vinegar
Provides acidity that gives the dressing its tang.

The step that matters

Cook until the mixture thickens. Egg proteins set gently as they warm. Stirring constantly over hot water, not direct heat, keeps the eggs from scrambling into lumps while the mixture thickens.

Swap the white pepper

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (egg, sugar, mustard, vinegar):

  1. Tarragonfits better
  2. Capersfits better
  3. Dillfits better
  4. White pepperthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against egg, sugar, mustard, vinegar. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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