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Pickle for Hams

A brine for curing hams using saltpetre, sugar or molasses, spices, and coarse salt.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Clove and allspice match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 7,874 recipes. Both carry estragole, which smells anise, licorice. The science ↓

Pickle for Hams

Ingredients

Directions

Make the brine

  1. In a large pot, combine saltpetre, sugar or molasses, ground cloves, allspice, pepper, and coarse salt with cold water. Boil the mixture for 30 minutes.

Cure the hams

  1. Pour the hot or cold brine over the hams.

  2. Rub the hams with a little salt and let them sit for 24 hours to draw out moisture.

  3. Submerge the hams in the pickle and let them cure for 6 weeks.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Clove + allspicetop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together7,874 recipes

    Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).

  2. Clove + peppertop 5% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together17,451 recipes

    Shared aroma: ethyl octanoate (fruity, wine).

  3. Allspice + peppertop 5% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together6,395 recipes

    Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).

  4. Sugar + allspicetop 24% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together6,938 recipes

    Shared aroma: 1-penten-3-one (fish, pungent).

  5. Sugar + clovetop 26% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together17,182 recipes

    Shared aroma: 1-penten-3-one (fish, pungent).

Sugar and clove barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 17,182 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Saltpetre
Acts as a curing agent that helps preserve the meat and sets its pink colour.
Sugar or molasses
Adds sweetness that balances the strong salt and spices.
Coarse salt
Draws moisture out of the meat and carries flavour into it while curing.
Ground cloves
Adds warm, aromatic flavour to the brine and the cured ham.
Allspice
Contributes a warm, aromatic flavour that rounds out the brine.

The step that matters

Keep the hams fully submerged for the whole cure. Salt and curing agents move into meat slowly and only from the surface. Any part left out of the brine will cure unevenly and may spoil, so the hams must stay covered for the full six weeks.

Swap the clove

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (sugar, allspice, pepper):

  1. Cinnamonfits better
  2. Clovethe original
  3. Nutmegfits about as well
  4. Gingerfits less well

Fit is the average pairing score against sugar, allspice, pepper. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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