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Kidney a LA Tartare

A tartare of sheep's kidneys served with a sauce of egg yolk, oil, vinegar, gherkins, mustard, and shallots.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Mustard and shallot match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 3% of all ingredient pairs, and 842 recipes mention both. Both carry eucalyptol, which smells eucalyptus, herbal. The science ↓

The recipe

Ingredients

Contains: egg (auto-detected from the ingredients and method; we can miss things, so check labels)

Directions

Make the sauce

  1. Beat the egg yolk in a bowl and gradually mix in the salad oil.

  2. Add the vinegar, gherkins, chili vinegar, French mustard, and shallots; mix well.

Cook and serve

  1. Wash and open the kidneys, then sprinkle them with pepper and coarse sea salt.

  2. Broil the kidneys for six minutes.

  3. Place the kidneys on a hot dish, fill the hollow of each with sauce, and serve the remaining sauce in a tureen.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much aroma chemistry they share, and how many recipes mention both.

  1. Mustard + shallottop 3% of all pairs
    Aroma overlapstrong
    Mentioned together842 recipes

    Shared aroma: eucalyptol (eucalyptus, herbal).

  2. Vinegar + mustardtop 4% of all pairs
    Aroma overlaplow
    Mentioned together14,067 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

  3. Mustard + peppertop 6% of all pairs
    Aroma overlapmoderate
    Mentioned together15,427 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-isopropyl-3-methoxypyrazine (earthy, pea).

  4. Vinegar + shallottop 6% of all pairs
    Aroma overlaplow
    Mentioned together2,282 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

  5. Vinegar + peppertop 6% of all pairs
    Aroma overlapmoderate
    Mentioned together27,805 recipes

    Shared aroma: 4'-methylacetophenone (bitter almond).

Vinegar and mustard share little aroma chemistry, yet 14,067 recipes mention both: they likely work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Sheep's kidneys
Form the main body of the dish, providing the meaty texture that the sauce accompanies.
Egg yolk
Emulsifies the salad oil into a thick, creamy sauce that holds together.
Salad oil
Adds richness and smooth body to the sauce as it is whisked into the yolk.
Gherkins
Add acidity and a crisp, tangy bite that cuts through the richness of the sauce.
French mustard
Adds sharp flavor and helps stabilize the emulsified sauce.
Shallots
Add a mild sharp aromatic flavor to the sauce.

The step that matters

Emulsifying the oil into the egg yolk. Adding the oil too quickly can prevent the yolk from absorbing it, causing the sauce to split. Adding it gradually, while mixing, lets the lecithin in the yolk bind the oil into a stable, thick emulsion.

Flavor stand-ins for the shallot

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (egg, vinegar, mustard, pepper):

  1. Capsicumbetter flavor fit
  2. Horseradishbetter flavor fit
  3. Cabbageabout as good a flavor fit
  4. Shallotthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against egg, vinegar, mustard, pepper. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes. This compares flavor only: it does not check the job the ingredient does in the dish (bulk, moisture, acidity, structure).

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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