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Walnut Catsup

A fermented walnut sauce made with vinegar, salt, pepper, cloves, nutmeg, and ginger.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Clove and nutmeg match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 8,686 recipes. Both carry estragole, which smells anise, licorice. The science ↓

Walnut Catsup

Ingredients

Directions

Prepare the walnuts

  1. Bruise the walnuts until they form a mass.

  2. Mix in the salt and 1 quart of vinegar.

  3. Stir daily for 14 days.

  4. Strain and squeeze the mixture through a cloth, setting the liquid aside.

  5. Add ½ pint of vinegar to the husks and let it stand overnight.

  6. Strain and squeeze the husks as before, combining the liquid with the reserved liquid.

Spice and boil

  1. Add the whole pepper, cloves, nutmeg, and ginger to the mixture.

  2. Boil for 30 minutes, covered.

  3. Strain the mixture again and let it cool.

Bottle

  1. Bottle the catsup, securing with new corks dipped in melted rosin.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Clove + nutmegtop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together8,686 recipes

    Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).

  2. Clove + gingertop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together6,038 recipes

    Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).

  3. Walnut + nutmegtop 5% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together1,230 recipes

    Shared aroma: eucalyptol (eucalyptus, herbal).

  4. Pepper + clovetop 5% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together17,451 recipes

    Shared aroma: ethyl octanoate (fruity, wine).

  5. Nutmeg + gingertop 5% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together3,324 recipes

    Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Green walnuts
Provide the main body and dark, bitter flavour of the ketchup.
Coarse sea salt
Draws moisture out of the walnuts and preserves the mixture during the long steep.
Vinegar
Acts as the liquid base and preservative, extracting flavour from the walnuts and husks.
Cloves
Add a warm, aromatic spice flavour.
Whole pepper
Adds sharp, pungent spice warmth to the sauce.

The step that matters

Stir daily for 14 days. The long steep lets salt and vinegar slowly extract flavour and preserve the mixture. Skipping or shortening it leaves the walnuts under-extracted and less protected against spoilage.

Swap the walnut

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (vinegar, pepper, clove, nutmeg, ginger):

  1. Chickpeafits better
  2. Cashew nutfits about as well
  3. Chestnutfits about as well
  4. Walnutthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against vinegar, pepper, clove, nutmeg, ginger. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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