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Dessert

Cabinet Pudding

A steamed pudding made with cherries or raisins, angelica, finger biscuits, ratafias, sugar, eggs, milk, and vanilla.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Angelica and biscuit share more aroma than cooks usually use. They rank in the top 4% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 69 recipes. Both carry coumarin, which smells sweet, hay. The science ↓

Cabinet Pudding

Ingredients

Directions

Prepare the mold

  1. Grease a 1½ pint mold with your fingers.

  2. Decorate the bottom of the mold with cherries or raisins, then with angelica.

  3. Break the finger biscuits into pieces.

  4. Fill the mold partly with the broken biscuits and the ratafias.

Make the custard

  1. In a bowl, combine the yolks and 2 egg whites.

  2. Add the sugar and whip lightly.

  3. Gradually stir in the milk, then add the essence of vanilla and mix well.

  4. Pour the mixture over the cake pieces in the mold.

Steam and serve

  1. Cover the top of the mold with buttered paper.

  2. Place the mold in a saucepan half full of boiling water.

  3. Steam for 45 minutes to 1 hour, ensuring the water reaches halfway up the mold.

  4. Carefully turn the pudding out onto a hot dish to serve.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Angelica + biscuittop 4% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together69 recipes

    Shared aroma: coumarin (sweet, hay).

  2. Vanilla + milktop 5% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together19,187 recipes

    Shared aroma: ethyl caproate (fruity, apple peel).

  3. Angelica + vanillatop 6% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together170 recipes

    Shared aroma: alpha-pinene (pine, turpentine).

  4. Sugar + vanillatop 8% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together35,032 recipes

    Shared aroma: beta-damascenone (apple, rose).

  5. Biscuit + vanillatop 9% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together422 recipes

    Shared aroma: maltol (caramel, sweet).

Sugar and vanilla barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 35,032 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Eggs
Their proteins set when heated, firming the custard into a sliceable pudding.
Milk
Provides the liquid that, with the eggs, forms a soft custard around the biscuit pieces.
Finger biscuits
Dry sponge that soaks up the custard and forms the body of the pudding.
Loaf sugar
Sweetens the custard and balances the richness of the eggs and milk.

The step that matters

Steam gently with water halfway up the mold. Gentle, even steam heat lets the egg custard set evenly. If the water is too low or boils too hard, the top can overcook, become watery or pitted, and the pudding may cook unevenly.

Swap the angelica

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (raisin, biscuit, sugar, vanilla, egg, milk):

  1. Cinnamonfits better
  2. Nutmegfits better
  3. Angelicathe original
  4. Capersfits less well

Fit is the average pairing score against raisin, biscuit, sugar, vanilla, egg, milk. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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