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Ragout of Cold Duck or Turkey

A ragout made from the remains of cold duck, turkey, or chicken, simmered with stock, cayenne pepper, mustard, tomato sauce, onion, butter, and brown flour.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Mustard and onion match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 6% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 9,259 recipes. Both carry 2-isopropyl-3-methoxypyrazine, which smells earthy, pea. The science ↓

Ragout of Cold Duck or Turkey

Ingredients

Directions

Prepare the stock

  1. Cut up the remains of cold duck, turkey, or chicken.

  2. Make a little stock using the bones.

  3. Flavor the stock with cayenne pepper, mustard, and tomato sauce.

Make the ragout

  1. In a pan, fry the chopped onion in boiling butter or fat until soft.

  2. Mix the fried onion with the stock and thicken with brown flour.

  3. Bring the mixture to a boil and add the pieces of cold meat.

  4. Allow to simmer for 15 minutes until thoroughly warm.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Mustard + oniontop 6% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together9,259 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-isopropyl-3-methoxypyrazine (earthy, pea).

  2. Pepper + tomatotop 7% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together17,923 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-isopropyl-3-methoxypyrazine (earthy, pea).

  3. Tomato + oniontop 8% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together20,633 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-isopropyl-3-methoxypyrazine (earthy, pea).

  4. Pepper + mustardtop 9% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together15,430 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-isopropyl-3-methoxypyrazine (earthy, pea).

  5. Pepper + oniontop 11% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together68,474 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-isopropyl-3-methoxypyrazine (earthy, pea).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Cold duck, turkey, or chicken
Provides the main meat, which is already cooked and only needs warming through.
Brown flour
Starch that thickens the stock into a cohesive sauce as it heats.
Butter or fat
Softens the onion and carries its flavor into the sauce as fat.
Onion
Adds savory sweetness and aroma when softened in fat.
Tomato sauce
Adds acidity and savory depth to the stock.

The step that matters

Thickening with brown flour. Flour must be mixed in smoothly with the stock and cooked through; added lumpy or without enough heat, it leaves raw floury taste and uneven thickness.

Swap the tomato

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (turkey, meat, pepper, mustard, sauce, onion, butter):

  1. Shallotfits better
  2. Horseradishfits better
  3. Capsicumfits better
  4. Tomatothe original

Fit is the average pairing score against turkey, meat, pepper, mustard, sauce, onion, butter. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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