Skip to main content
Dessert

Green Icing

A spinach-based icing made with egg white, powdered sugar, and lemon juice.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
Jump to recipe ↓

Why it works: Spinach and lemon match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 6% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 1,109 recipes. Both carry 1-octen-3-ol, which smells mushroom, earthy. The science ↓

Green Icing

Oven, in the book's wordsA cool oven

Ingredients

Directions

The book says “a cool oven”. The 300°F (150°C) in the steps is the modern equivalent, not the book's own figure.

Prepare the spinach juice

  1. Wash the spinach leaves thoroughly and bruise them in a mortar until you can squeeze out the juice.

Make the icing

  1. Whisk the egg white to a firm froth.

  2. Gradually add the powdered sugar and lemon juice, along with enough spinach juice to color the icing.

  3. Beat the mixture well for 30 minutes, adding more sugar if necessary.

Dry the icing

  1. Spread the icing smoothly and dry it in a cool oven at 300°F (150°C).

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Spinach + lemontop 6% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together1,109 recipes

    Shared aroma: 1-octen-3-ol (mushroom, earthy).

  2. Sugar + lemontop 18% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together53,532 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).

  3. Egg + lemontop 19% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together44,316 recipes

    Shared aroma: (e,e)-2,4-decadienal (fatty, deep fried).

  4. Egg + sugartop 21% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together122,807 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).

  5. Spinach + eggtop 22% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together2,323 recipes

    Shared aroma: 1-octen-3-ol (mushroom, earthy).

Sugar and lemon barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 53,532 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Egg white
Whipped to a firm foam, it gives the icing its light body and holds it together as it sets.
Powdered sugar
Adds sweetness and bulk, and stiffens the icing as it is beaten in.
Lemon juice
Adds acidity that brightens the sweetness and helps keep the icing stable.
Young spinach leaves
Supply the green color and a mild vegetal flavor to the icing.

The step that matters

Beat the mixture well for 30 minutes. Long beating incorporates air and dissolves sugar into the egg white foam, giving a smooth, stable icing. Under-beating leaves it grainy and runny, so it may not set properly when dried.

Swap the spinach

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (egg, sugar, lemon):

  1. Asparagusfits better
  2. Arrowrootfits better
  3. Sweet potatofits about as well
  4. Spinachthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against egg, sugar, lemon. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

You might also like