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Poulac Ketchup

A fermented elderberry ketchup made with vinegar, spices, and optional anchovies.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
From a historical cookbook (Internet Archive) · 9 ingredients
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Why it works: Ginger and clove match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 6,038 recipes. Both carry estragole, which smells anise, licorice. The science ↓

Poulac Ketchup

Oven, in the book's wordsA cool oven

Ingredients

Directions

Macerate the elderberries

  1. Place elderberries in a deep jar and pour boiling vinegar over them.

  2. Put the jar in a cool oven overnight.

  3. The next day, strain the liquid without squeezing the fruit.

Make and bottle the ketchup

  1. In a saucepan, combine the strained liquid with ginger, mace, peppercorns, salt, cloves, and shallots.

  2. Boil for 5 to 6 minutes, then pour the ketchup into bottles.

  3. If desired, add anchovies to the liquid and stir until dissolved.

  4. Cork and seal the bottles securely.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Ginger + clovetop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together6,038 recipes

    Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).

  2. Clove + shallottop 5% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together1,677 recipes

    Shared aroma: eucalyptol (eucalyptus, herbal).

  3. Mace + clovetop 6% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together8,400 recipes

    Shared aroma: methyleugenol (clove, spice).

  4. Ginger + shallottop 7% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together565 recipes

    Shared aroma: eucalyptol (eucalyptus, herbal).

  5. Ginger + macetop 11% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together2,152 recipes

    Shared aroma: alpha-pinene (pine, turpentine).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Elderberries
Provide the main fruit flavour and colour of the ketchup.
Vinegar
Extracts flavour from the fruit and gives the ketchup its sharp acidity.
Shallots
Add savoury depth and aromatic sweetness to the simmered liquid.
Anchovies
Add a salty, savoury depth that rounds out the flavour when dissolved.

The step that matters

Strain without squeezing the fruit. Pressing the elderberries pushes solids and bitter, cloudy compounds from the skins and seeds into the liquid, making the ketchup murky and harsher in flavour. Letting the juice drip through keeps it clear and smooth.

Swap the mace

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (vinegar, ginger, clove, shallot):

  1. Allspicefits better
  2. Cinnamonfits better
  3. Turmericfits better
  4. Macethe original

Fit is the average pairing score against vinegar, ginger, clove, shallot. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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