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Dessert

Rhubarb Mould

A jellied rhubarb dessert made with sugar, almonds, lemon, and gelatin.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Rhubarb and almond match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 117 recipes. Both carry coumarin, which smells sweet, hay. The science ↓

Rhubarb Mould

Ingredients

Directions

Make the rhubarb mixture

  1. Boil the rhubarb with sugar, almonds, lemon juice, and lemon rind over a brisk fire until thick and smooth, about 30 minutes.

  2. Dissolve the isinglass or gelatin in boiling water.

  3. Stir the dissolved isinglass or gelatin into the rhubarb mixture.

Set and serve

  1. Pour the mixture into a mould soaked in cold water.

  2. Place the mould in a cool place or on ice until firm.

  3. Turn out the mould.

  4. Serve with Devonshire or other cream.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Rhubarb + almondtop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together117 recipes

    Shared aroma: coumarin (sweet, hay).

  2. Rhubarb + lemontop 7% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together546 recipes

    Shared aroma: acetic acid (sour, vinegar).

  3. Almond + lemontop 10% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together5,655 recipes

    Shared aroma: eucalyptol (eucalyptus, herbal).

  4. Sugar + almondtop 18% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together15,679 recipes

    Shared aroma: 1-penten-3-one (fish, pungent).

  5. Sugar + lemontop 18% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together53,532 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).

Sugar and lemon barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 53,532 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Rhubarb
Provides the bulk and tart flavour of the mould as it cooks down to a thick pulp.
Sugar
Sweetens the rhubarb and helps it cook down to a thick, smooth texture.
Isinglass or gelatine
Sets the cooked rhubarb so it holds its shape when turned out of the mould.
Bitter almonds
Add a subtle almond aroma to the rhubarb mixture.

The step that matters

Stir the dissolved isinglass or gelatin into the rhubarb mixture. Gelatine or isinglass must be fully dissolved before it is stirred in, or it can form lumps and set unevenly. The mixture should also be cool enough not to melt the setting agent's structure, so the mould sets smooth and firm.

Swap the lemon

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (rhubarb, sugar, almond):

  1. Vanillafits better
  2. Figfits better
  3. Raisinfits better
  4. Lemonthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against rhubarb, sugar, almond. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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