Why it works: Sugar and flour are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 15% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 92,116 recipes. Both carry phenylacetaldehyde, which smells hawthorne, honey. The science ↓
Riband Wafers
Ingredients
Directions
The book says “a quick oven”. The 400°F (200°C) in the steps is the modern equivalent, not the book's own figure.
Prepare
Rub the sugar on the lemons until the yellow part is removed.
Crush the sugar to a powder and measure 1 pound.
Mix the powdered sugar with the flour.
Make the dough
Gradually add the beaten eggs, mixing yolks and whites separately first, then together.
Roll the pastry out until it is as thin as a coin.
Shape and bake
Stamp out rounds the size of a tumbler's top and place on well-buttered tins.
Bake in a 400°F (200°C) oven.
When half baked, roll the wafers around your finger to form scrolls.
Return to the oven to crisp for an additional 5 to 10 minutes.
Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.
Explore the science
The flavor team
The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.
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Sugar + flourtop 15% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together92,116 recipes
Shared aroma: phenylacetaldehyde (hawthorne, honey).
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Flour + eggtop 15% of all pairsSmell alikelowCooked together106,462 recipes
Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).
-
Lemon + flourtop 17% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together30,404 recipes
Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).
-
Sugar + lemontop 18% of all pairsSmell alikelowCooked together53,532 recipes
Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).
-
Lemon + eggtop 19% of all pairsSmell alikelowCooked together44,316 recipes
Shared aroma: (e,e)-2,4-decadienal (fatty, deep fried).
Flour and egg barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 106,462 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.
Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs
What each ingredient does
- Powdered sugar
- Adds sweetness and helps the wafers brown and set crisp as they cool.
- Fine flour
- Provides the structure that holds the thin pastry together while it bakes.
- Eggs
- Bind the dough and add richness, helping it set and lift as it bakes.
- Lemons
- Their rubbed peel supplies fragrant oils that flavour the wafers.
The step that matters
Roll the wafers around your finger when half baked. Sugar-rich wafers stiffen and set as they cool, so they must be shaped while still warm and pliable. If they cool fully before rolling, they will crack instead of curling into scrolls.
Swap the lemon
How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (sugar, flour, egg):
- Raisinfits better
- Vanillafits better
- Lemonthe original
- Figfits about as well
Fit is the average pairing score against sugar, flour, egg. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.
“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.
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