Why it works: Clove and nutmeg match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 8,686 recipes. Both carry estragole, which smells anise, licorice. The science ↓
Sponge Pudding
Ingredients
Directions
Make the batter
Mix together flour, ginger, tartaric acid, cloves, nutmeg, clarified dripping, raw egg, brown sugar, and milk until well combined.
Dissolve the carbonate of soda in water and beat it into the mixture.
Steam and serve
Pour the mixture into a greased basin, leaving space for it to swell.
Steam for 2½ to 3 hours.
Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.
Explore the science
The flavor team
The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.
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Clove + nutmegtop 1% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together8,686 recipes
Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).
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Ginger + clovetop 1% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together6,038 recipes
Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).
-
Ginger + nutmegtop 5% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together3,324 recipes
Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).
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Flour + nutmegtop 8% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together18,623 recipes
Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).
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Flour + milktop 14% of all pairsSmell alikelowCooked together78,219 recipes
Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).
Flour and milk barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 78,219 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.
Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs
What each ingredient does
- Flour
- Forms the main structure of the pudding as it sets.
- Clarified dripping
- Adds fat for a tender, rich crumb.
- Raw egg
- Binds the batter and helps it set with structure.
- Carbonate of soda
- Reacts with the tartaric acid to produce gas that lightens the batter.
- Tartaric acid
- Acid that reacts with the carbonate of soda to make the pudding rise.
- Brown sugar
- Adds sweetness and a molasses flavour that deepens the pudding.
The step that matters
Leaving space in the basin. The batter rises and swells as the leavening gas forms during steaming. Filling the basin too full can cause the batter to overflow or become dense, so leaving headroom lets it expand properly.
Swap the ginger
How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (flour, clove, nutmeg, egg, sugar, milk):
- Cinnamonfits better
- Cardamomfits better
- Allspicefits better
- Gingerthe original
Fit is the average pairing score against flour, clove, nutmeg, egg, sugar, milk. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.
“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.
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