Why it works: Nutmeg and cinnamon match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 11,917 recipes. Both carry estragole, which smells anise, licorice. The science ↓
Water Sponge-cake
Ingredients
Directions
The book gives no oven temperature. The 350°F (175°C) in the steps was added when the recipe was transcribed, as a starting point.
Make the batter
Preheat oven to 350°F (175°C).
Beat 6 eggs and gradually add 4 cups sugar, mixing until well combined.
Sift in 4 cups flour, then add 1 cup cold water, 2 teaspoons cream of tartar, and 1 teaspoon baking soda; mix until smooth.
In another bowl, combine 1 pint milk, 1 cup melted butter, and 1 cup yeast; mix well and add to batter.
Rise and mix
Knead dough with flour until stiff, then set aside to rise overnight.
The next morning, add 2 cups sugar, 4 eggs, grated nutmeg, and cinnamon to dough; mix thoroughly.
Shape and fry
Shape dough into cakes like ladyfingers.
Fry cakes in boiling lard until light brown, then remove with a perforated skimmer and let cool.
Finish
While still hot, sprinkle fine sugar over cakes.
Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.
Explore the science
The flavor team
The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.
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Nutmeg + cinnamontop 1% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together11,917 recipes
Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).
-
Milk + buttertop 7% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together81,283 recipes
Shared aroma: (z)-4-heptenal (biscuit, cream).
-
Cream + buttertop 8% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together41,516 recipes
Shared aroma: delta-dodecalactone (sweet, creamy).
-
Flour + nutmegtop 8% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together18,623 recipes
Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).
-
Flour + cinnamontop 9% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together17,341 recipes
Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).
Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs
What each ingredient does
- Flour
- Forms the stiff dough that gives the cakes their structure.
- Eggs
- Bind the batter and add structure and richness as they set.
- Sugar
- Sweetens the cakes and helps them brown when fried.
- Yeast
- Produces gas during the overnight rise, lightening the dough.
- Baking soda
- Reacts with the acid in the batter to release gas and lift the cakes.
- Butter
- Adds fat for moisture and a tender crumb.
The step that matters
Frying in boiling lard until light brown. If the lard is too cool, the cakes absorb grease and turn heavy; if too hot, the outside browns before the inside cooks through. Keeping the fat steadily hot gives a light, evenly cooked cake.
“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.
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