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To Roast Reed-birds, or Ortolans

A method for roasting small reed-birds, optionally wrapped in vine leaves.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Flour and butter are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 12% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 124,287 recipes. Both carry isobutyraldehyde, which smells malty, green. The science ↓

To Roast Reed-birds, or Ortolans

Ingredients

Directions

Prepare the birds

  1. Stuff each bird with an oyster or a little butter mixed with finely sifted bread crumbs.

  2. Dredge the birds with flour.

  3. Run a small skewer through each bird and tie them on a spit.

Roast

  1. Baste the birds with lard or fresh butter.

  2. Roast for about 10 minutes.

Alternative method

  1. For an alternative method, grease the birds with lard or butter, wrap them in vine leaves, and secure with string.

  2. Place the wrapped birds in a heated iron pan and bury them in hot ashes.

  3. Remove the vine leaves before serving.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Flour + buttertop 12% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together124,287 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

  2. Oyster + buttertop 12% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together8,184 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2,6-nonadienal (cucumber, green).

  3. Oyster + flourtop 25% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together4,582 recipes

    Shared aroma: hexanal (grass, green).

Flour and butter barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 124,287 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Oyster or butter
Adds fat and moisture inside each bird as it cooks.
Flour
Forms a dry coating on the outside that helps the skin brown.
Lard or butter
Fat brushed over the birds keeps the surface from drying and promotes browning.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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