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To Make Barley-sugar

A candied sugar made by boiling sugar with water, egg white, and lemon, then cooling and cutting into strips.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
From a historical cookbook (Internet Archive) · 6 ingredients
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Why it works: Sugar and lemon are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 18% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 53,532 recipes. Both carry 2-nonenal, which smells fatty, green. The science ↓

To Make Barley-sugar

Ingredients

Directions

Make the syrup

  1. In a well-tinned saucepan, combine the sugar and water.

  2. Dissolve the sugar, then set over moderate heat.

  3. Add the well-beaten egg white before the mixture warms up and stir well.

  4. Once boiling, remove the scum as it rises and continue boiling until clear.

  5. Strain the mixture through a fine sieve or muslin bag back into the saucepan.

  6. Boil again until it becomes brittle when dropped in cold water.

  7. Add lemon juice and essence of lemon, then let it stand for 1–2 minutes.

Shape and store

  1. Grease a marble slab or large dish with salad oil.

  2. Pour the sugar onto the slab and cut into strips with scissors.

  3. Twist the strips and store the barley sugar in a very dry place.

  4. Alternatively, drop small amounts onto the oiled slab to make lozenges or drops.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Sugar + lemontop 18% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together53,532 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).

  2. Egg + lemontop 19% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together44,316 recipes

    Shared aroma: (e,e)-2,4-decadienal (fatty, deep fried).

  3. Sugar + eggtop 21% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together122,807 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).

Sugar and lemon barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 53,532 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Sugar
Forms the brittle, glassy candy structure once boiled to a hard-crack stage.
Egg white
Clarifies the syrup by collecting impurities that are skimmed off as it boils.
Lemon juice
Adds a bright acidity that balances the sweetness of the sugar.

The step that matters

Boil again until brittle in cold water. Sugar must reach the hard-crack stage to set brittle. Stopping early leaves a sticky candy that softens, while overcooking can scorch and taste bitter.

Swap the lemon

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (sugar, egg):

  1. Vanillafits better
  2. Raisinfits about as well
  3. Lemonthe original
  4. Datesfits less well

Fit is the average pairing score against sugar, egg. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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