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Larded Sweetbreads with Peas

Larded sweetbreads are simmered with pork, vegetables, and peas, then served with a clear glaze and mashed potato garnish.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Pork and chicken match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 2% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 5,417 recipes. Both carry 2-furfurylthiol, which smells coffee, roasted. The science ↓

Larded Sweetbreads with Peas

Ingredients

Directions

Prepare the sweetbreads

  1. Wash the sweetbreads and soak them in cold water.

  2. Boil the sweetbreads in soup stock with a dash of vinegar for 15 minutes.

  3. Remove the sweetbreads and press them between two pans until cold.

  4. Cut the pork into thin strips and lard the sweetbreads with them.

  5. Trim the edges of the sweetbreads to an even shape.

Braise and make the glaze

  1. Boil down the chicken stock to half its quantity.

  2. Butter the bottom of a shallow saucepan and place the sweetbreads inside.

  3. Add remaining pork trimmings, onion, turnips, celery, bruised peppercorns, and enough reduced broth to fill the spaces without floating the sweetbreads.

  4. Cover and simmer for about 30 minutes.

  5. Transfer the sweetbreads to another vessel.

  6. Add remaining broth to the gravy.

  7. Strain the gravy.

  8. Boil down to a clear glaze.

  9. Pour the glaze over the sweetbreads just before serving.

Serve with potatoes

  1. Spread mashed potatoes thinly in a large dish and cut out flat pieces.

  2. Place one piece of mashed potato in each dish at a diagonal slant.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Pork + chickentop 2% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together5,417 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-furfurylthiol (coffee, roasted).

  2. Pork + potatotop 5% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together2,668 recipes

    Shared aroma: sotolon (curry, maple).

  3. Chicken + potatotop 7% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together2,756 recipes

    Shared aroma: (z)-4-decenal (green, must).

  4. Potato + peastop 9% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together1,016 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-isobutyl-3-methoxypyrazine (green bell pepper, earthy).

  5. Butter + potatotop 13% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together6,456 recipes

    Shared aroma: (z)-4-heptenal (biscuit, cream).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Sweetbreads
Main protein; boiling then pressing firms them so they hold their shape when larded and braised.
Salt pork or bacon
Adds fat and savoury flavour; strips lard the sweetbreads and trimmings enrich the gravy.
Chicken or veal broth
Forms the gravy base; reducing it concentrates flavour into a glaze.
Butter
Enriches the pan and adds fat and browning to the braising base.
Mashed potatoes
Provides a soft, starchy base that the sweetbreads are served on.

The step that matters

Boil down to a clear glaze. Reducing the strained gravy concentrates its gelatin and flavour; if it boils too hard or too long it turns dark and sticky, while too little reduction leaves it thin and dull.

Swap the peas

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (pork, chicken, butter, potato):

  1. Peanutfits better
  2. Sesamefits better
  3. Beansfits better
  4. Peasthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against pork, chicken, butter, potato. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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