Why it works: Allspice and cinnamon match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 5,536 recipes. Both carry estragole, which smells anise, licorice. The science ↓
Fig Gmke
Ingredients
Directions
The book gives no oven temperature. The 350°F (175°C) in the steps was added when the recipe was transcribed, as a starting point.
Prepare the white batter
Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C).
In a bowl, cream together the sugar and butter.
Add the sweet milk, flour, and baking powder, and mix well. Fold in the egg whites gently.
Make the gold batter
For the gold part, cream together 1 cup sugar and ¾ cup butter. Add ½ cup sweet milk, 1½ teaspoons baking powder, and 1½ cups flour, mixing well.
Incorporate the 7 egg yolks, 1 whole egg, allspice, and cinnamon.
Assemble and bake
Pour the white batter into two long pie tins.
In one pie tin, layer half of the gold batter and place the halved figs on top, ensuring they touch.
Cover with the remaining gold batter and bake until done.
Finish and serve
Once baked, layer the cakes with frosting while warm, placing the gold layer between the white layers and frosting the top.
Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.
Explore the science
The flavor team
The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.
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Allspice + cinnamontop 1% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together5,536 recipes
Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).
-
Cinnamon + figtop 4% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together614 recipes
Shared aroma: cinnamyl acetate (sweet aromatic, cinnamon).
-
Butter + milktop 7% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together81,283 recipes
Shared aroma: (z)-4-heptenal (biscuit, cream).
-
Allspice + figtop 8% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together182 recipes
Shared aroma: 2-methylbutyl acetate (fruit).
-
Flour + cinnamontop 9% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together17,341 recipes
Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).
Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs
What each ingredient does
- Egg whites
- Whipped air and structure that lift the white batter as it bakes.
- Butter
- Adds richness and tenderness through fat that coats the flour.
- Baking powder
- Releases gas during baking so the cake rises and becomes light.
- Flour
- Provides the structure that sets the cake crumb as it bakes.
- Egg yolks
- Add richness, moisture, and help the gold batter set firmly.
- Figs
- Add natural sweetness, moisture, and fruity flavor to the gold layer.
The step that matters
Folding in the egg whites gently. Egg whites hold air only while intact. Vigorous mixing knocks out that air, so the cake rises less and turns denser.
Swap the allspice
How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (sugar, butter, milk, egg, flour, cinnamon, fig):
- Nutmegfits better
- Cardamomfits better
- Clovefits about as well
- Allspicethe original
Fit is the average pairing score against sugar, butter, milk, egg, flour, cinnamon, fig. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.
“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.
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