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A homemade ice cream made by freezing cream or custard with ice and salt.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Cream and sugar are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 9% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 43,450 recipes. Both carry 2,3-butanedione, which smells butter, sweet. The science ↓

Ices

Ingredients

Directions

Prepare

  1. Chill the cream or custard on ice for 2 hours before freezing.

  2. In a tub, mix 1/3 cup coarse sea salt with 2/3 cup crushed ice.

Freeze the ice cream

  1. Place the freezer in the tub and fill it with the ice and salt mixture.

  2. Pour in the chilled cream and turn the dasher steadily until stiff.

  3. Do not drain the water off while freezing for better results.

  4. Once frozen, remove the cover, take out the dasher, and replace the cover.

  5. Stop the hole, cover with a clean cloth, and pack well with ice and salt.

Make water ices

  1. To make water ices, boil 1 cup sugar and 1 cup water to create a thin syrup.

  2. Add 1/4 cup lemon juice or fruit juice to the syrup.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Cream + sugartop 9% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together43,450 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2,3-butanedione (butter, sweet).

  2. Sugar + lemontop 18% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together53,532 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).

  3. Cream + lemontop 30% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together15,640 recipes

    Shared aroma: acetic acid (sour, vinegar).

Sugar and lemon barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 53,532 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Cream or custard
Provides fat and richness, giving the frozen result a creamy, smooth texture.
Sugar
Adds sweetness and keeps the frozen mixture softer by lowering its freezing point.
Lemon juice or fruit juice
Adds acidity and bright flavor to the water ices.

The step that matters

Pour in the chilled cream and turn the dasher steadily until stiff. Cold cream freezes quickly while being churned, which keeps ice crystals small and the texture smooth. Steady churning incorporates air and prevents large, grainy crystals from forming.

Swap the lemon

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (cream, sugar):

  1. Vanillafits better
  2. Strawberryfits better
  3. Raspberryfits better
  4. Lemonthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against cream, sugar. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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