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Dessert

Italian Cream

A chilled custard made with cream, sugar, lemon, wine, isinglass, and water.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Cream and sugar are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 9% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 43,450 recipes. Both carry 2,3-butanedione, which smells butter, sweet. The science ↓

Italian Cream

Ingredients

Directions

Make the cream mixture

  1. Divide the cream into two bowls.

  2. In one bowl, mix the sugar, lemon juice, and wine.

  3. Add the other pint of cream and stir vigorously.

Set the cream

  1. Boil the isinglass with the water until reduced by half.

  2. Stir the lukewarm isinglass into the cream mixture.

  3. Pour everything into a glass dish to congeal.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Cream + sugartop 9% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together43,450 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2,3-butanedione (butter, sweet).

  2. Lemon + winetop 13% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together6,157 recipes

    Shared aroma: decanal (soap, orange peel).

  3. Sugar + lemontop 18% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together53,532 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).

  4. Cream + winetop 19% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together3,887 recipes

    Shared aroma: 1-octen-3-one (mushroom, metallic).

  5. Cream + lemontop 30% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together15,640 recipes

    Shared aroma: acetic acid (sour, vinegar).

Sugar and lemon barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 53,532 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Cream
Forms the rich body and creamy texture of the set dessert.
Powdered white sugar
Adds sweetness and balances the sharpness of the lemon juice.
Lemon juice
Adds acidity that brightens the flavour and cuts the richness of the cream.
Wine
Adds aroma and flavour depth along with a touch of acidity.
Isinglass
A gelatin-like substance that sets the cream into a firm, sliceable dish as it cools.

The step that matters

Stir the lukewarm isinglass into the cream mixture. Isinglass is a collagen-based gelatin that sets as it cools. It should be warm enough to stay liquid and blend in evenly, but not so hot that it scalds or curdles the cream, and it must be mixed thoroughly so the dish sets uniformly.

Swap the lemon

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (cream, sugar, wine):

  1. Vanillafits better
  2. Strawberryfits better
  3. Raspberryfits better
  4. Lemonthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against cream, sugar, wine. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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