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Oyster Aigrettes

Fried batter made with butter, water, flour, eggs, salt, cayenne, lemon juice, oyster powder, served on a napkin.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Pepper and lemon match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 3% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 27,047 recipes. Both carry trans-2-nonenal, which smells cardboard, fatty. The science ↓

Oyster Aigrettes

Ingredients

Directions

Make the choux paste

  1. Melt the butter in cold water in a saucepan until boiling.

  2. Add the flour, stirring vigorously until the mixture leaves the sides of the pan clean.

  3. Remove from heat and let cool slightly.

  4. Incorporate the eggs, salt, cayenne, lemon juice, and oyster powder one at a time, mixing well.

Fry and serve

  1. Heat the fat in a pan.

  2. Drop small spoonfuls of the mixture into the fat.

  3. Fry until golden brown, about 5 to 10 minutes.

  4. Serve on a napkin in a pyramid shape, sprinkled with dried oyster powder.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Pepper + lemontop 3% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together27,047 recipes

    Shared aroma: trans-2-nonenal (cardboard, fatty).

  2. Butter + flourtop 12% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together124,287 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

  3. Butter + oystertop 12% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together8,184 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2,6-nonadienal (cucumber, green).

  4. Egg + oystertop 14% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together4,103 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).

  5. Flour + eggtop 15% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together106,462 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

Butter and flour barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 124,287 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Butter
Adds richness and tenderness to the paste as it melts into the water.
Vienna flour
Its starch gelatinises with the hot water and sets the paste structure.
Whole eggs
Bind the paste and give it lift and a tender interior as they set.
Egg yolk
Adds richness and helps the paste bind and brown well.
Oyster powder
Provides the main oyster flavour throughout the paste.

The step that matters

Cool the paste before adding the eggs. If the paste is still very hot, the eggs will scramble or cook unevenly instead of blending smoothly. Cooling slightly keeps the paste smooth and glossy so it holds its shape and puffs when fried.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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