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To Cure Hams

A method of curing hams using saltpetre, salts, sugar, beer, spices, and smoking.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Beer and pepper work together. They rank in the top 16% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 940 recipes. Both carry trans-2-nonenal, which smells cardboard, fatty. The science ↓

To Cure Hams

Ingredients

Directions

Prepare the ham

  1. Hang the ham for three days in a cool place.

Cure

  1. Mix saltpetre, coarse sea salt, common salt, coarsest sugar, and strong beer together.

  2. Pour the mixture over the ham immediately.

  3. Add black pepper and pimento to the mixture for extra flavor.

  4. Turn the ham in the pickle twice a day for three weeks.

Dry and smoke

  1. Cover the ham with bran after wiping it dry.

  2. Smoke the ham for three to four weeks, depending on your preference.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Beer + peppertop 16% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together940 recipes

    Shared aroma: trans-2-nonenal (cardboard, fatty).

  2. Sugar + beertop 22% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together699 recipes

    Shared aroma: beta-damascenone (apple, rose).

  3. Sugar + peppertop 32% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together19,401 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).

Sugar and pepper barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 19,401 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Saltpetre
Preserves the meat and gives cured ham its characteristic pink colour and flavour.
Coarse sea salt
Draws out moisture and seasons the ham during the cure.
Common salt
Draws out moisture and seasons the ham during the cure.
Coarsest sugar
Balances the saltiness and adds sweetness to the cure.
Strong beer
Carries the cure into the meat and adds a malty aroma.
Black pepper
Adds aroma and a mild spicy bite to the cure.

The step that matters

Turn the ham in the pickle twice a day. The cure must reach every part of the ham evenly. Regular turning keeps the salt and pickle in contact with all surfaces, so the meat cures uniformly instead of spoiling or staying salty in spots.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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