Skip to main content
Main

Stewed Water Turtles, or Terrapins

A stew of boiled female terrapins served with a sauce of egg yolk, Madeira or sherry, nutmeg, mace, currant jelly, cayenne pepper, and butter.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
Jump to recipe ↓

Why it works: Nutmeg and mace are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 4% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 6,557 recipes. Both carry myristicin, which smells spice, warm. The science ↓

Stewed Water Turtles, or Terrapins

Ingredients

Directions

Prepare the terrapins

  1. Select the largest, thickest, and fattest female terrapins, ensuring they are alive.

  2. Wash the terrapins.

  3. Place the terrapins in boiling water with a little salt.

  4. Boil for 10 to 15 minutes until thoroughly cooked.

  5. Remove the shell, extract the meat, and discard the sand-bag, gall, and entrails.

  6. Cut the meat into pieces.

Stew and make the sauce

  1. Place the meat in a stewpan with its eggs and enough fresh butter to stew well.

  2. Cover the pan and heat until hot throughout, shaking it occasionally to retain flavor.

  3. In another pan, make a sauce with beaten egg yolk, Madeira or sherry, nutmeg, mace, ½ cup currant jelly, cayenne pepper, and salt to taste, enriched with a large lump of fresh butter.

  4. Stir the sauce over the fire until it almost boils, then remove from heat.

Serve

  1. Serve the terrapins hot in a covered dish and the sauce separately in a sauce tureen.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Nutmeg + macetop 4% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together6,557 recipes

    Shared aroma: myristicin (spice, warm).

  2. Nutmeg + peppertop 7% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together13,015 recipes

    Shared aroma: 4'-methylacetophenone (bitter almond).

  3. Sherry + curranttop 11% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together393 recipes

    Shared aroma: ethyl cinnamate (sweet, balsamic).

  4. Mace + curranttop 12% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together1,791 recipes

    Shared aroma: alpha-pinene (pine, turpentine).

  5. Butter + sherrytop 14% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together3,505 recipes

    Shared aroma: ethyl octanoate (fruity, wine).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Female terrapins
Provide the main meat, which is firm and rich when chosen fat and thick.
Fresh butter
Adds richness and moisture, helping the meat stew gently without drying.
Beaten egg yolk
Thickens the sauce as it heats and gives it a smooth, rich body.
Madeira or sherry
Adds acidity and aromatic depth to the sauce.
Currant jelly
Contributes sweetness and a fruity tartness that balances the rich sauce.

The step that matters

Stirring the sauce over the fire. Egg yolk thickens through gentle heat, but if the sauce boils hard it can curdle and turn grainy. Stir constantly and remove it once it almost boils.

Swap the currant

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (butter, egg, sherry, nutmeg, mace, pepper):

  1. Lemonfits better
  2. Figfits better
  3. Plumfits better
  4. Currantthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against butter, egg, sherry, nutmeg, mace, pepper. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

You might also like