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Dessert

Variegated Jelly

A layered gelatin dessert made with wine, pink gelatin, and egg yolk mixture.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
From a historical cookbook (Internet Archive) · 13 ingredients
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Why it works: Milk and vanilla are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 5% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 19,187 recipes. Both carry ethyl caproate, which smells fruity, apple peel. The science ↓

Variegated Jelly

Ingredients

Directions

Prepare the gelatine

  1. Divide the box of gelatine into halves and place each half in a bowl with ½ cup cold water.

  2. Put the pink gelatine in a third bowl with ¾ cup cold water and cover all bowls.

  3. Let sit for 2 hours.

  4. Add 1 pint boiling water, 1 cup sugar, ½ pint wine, and lemon juice to the pink gelatine.

  5. Stir until dissolved and strain through a napkin.

  6. Prepare one of the other gelatine portions the same way.

Make the layers

  1. Beat together 4 egg yolks and ½ cup sugar.

  2. Add this to the third gelatine portion.

  3. Stir the mixture into 1⅓ pints boiling milk in a double boiler and stir for 3 minutes.

  4. Strain through a fine sieve and add 1 teaspoon vanilla extract.

  5. Place 2 molds (each holding about 3 pints) in a deep pan surrounded by ice and water.

  6. Pour equal parts of the clear wine jelly into the molds and let it set.

  7. Once set, pour in the pink gelatine, which should be kept at a warm temperature.

  8. After it hardens, pour the egg mixture into the molds while still liquid.

Chill and serve

  1. Set the molds in an ice chest for 3 to 4 hours.

  2. To serve, dip the molds in tepid water to loosen the jelly and gently turn it out onto flat dishes.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Milk + vanillatop 5% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together19,187 recipes

    Shared aroma: ethyl caproate (fruity, apple peel).

  2. Sugar + vanillatop 8% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together35,032 recipes

    Shared aroma: beta-damascenone (apple, rose).

  3. Wine + lemontop 13% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together6,157 recipes

    Shared aroma: decanal (soap, orange peel).

  4. Lemon + vanillatop 15% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together5,961 recipes

    Shared aroma: eucalyptol (eucalyptus, herbal).

  5. Lemon + milktop 15% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together19,053 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).

Sugar and vanilla barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 35,032 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Gelatine
Sets the liquid into a firm, sliceable jelly as it cools.
Egg yolks
Enrich and thicken the milk mixture into a creamy custard layer.
Milk
Forms the creamy base of the custard layer.
Sugar
Sweetens the jelly layers and the custard.
Wine
Adds flavour and liquid to the clear jelly layer.
Lemon juice
Adds acidity that brightens the sweet jelly flavour.

The step that matters

Pour each layer at the right moment. Gelatine sets as it cools. Pour a layer too early and it mixes into the set layer below; let it cool too long and it sets too firm to pour cleanly. Keep the pink gelatine warm and pour the egg mixture while still liquid, only after the layer beneath has set.

Swap the lemon

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (sugar, wine, egg, milk, vanilla):

  1. Figfits better
  2. Peachfits better
  3. Strawberryfits better
  4. Lemonthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against sugar, wine, egg, milk, vanilla. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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