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New York Breakfast Rolls

A quick roll made with flour, cream of tartar, lard, bicarbonate of soda, and cold sweet milk.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Flour and milk are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 14% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 78,219 recipes. Both carry isobutyraldehyde, which smells malty, green. The science ↓

New York Breakfast Rolls

Ingredients

Directions

The book gives no oven temperature. The 400°F (200°C) in the steps was added when the recipe was transcribed, as a starting point.

Make the dough

  1. In a large bowl, combine the flour, cream of tartar, lard, and bicarbonate of soda.

  2. Gradually mix in cold sweet milk until a dough forms.

  3. Knead the dough lightly and shape it into rolls.

Bake

  1. Bake immediately in a preheated oven at 400°F (200°C) until golden.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Flour + milktop 14% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together78,219 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

  2. Cream + milktop 18% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together29,399 recipes

    Shared aroma: delta-dodecalactone (sweet, creamy).

  3. Flour + creamtop 20% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together30,481 recipes

    Shared aroma: acetaldehyde (pungent, ethereal).

Flour and milk barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 78,219 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

All-purpose flour
Provides the structure that holds the dough together and sets as the rolls bake.
Cream of tartar
Acidic powder that reacts with bicarbonate of soda to produce gas for rising.
Bicarbonate of soda
Alkaline leavening that reacts with the acid to lift the rolls as they bake.
Lard
Fat that tenderises the crumb and adds richness to the rolls.
Cold sweet milk
Liquid that hydrates the flour and binds the ingredients into a dough.

The step that matters

Bake immediately. Cream of tartar and bicarbonate of soda begin producing gas as soon as they are moist, so the dough should go into the hot oven right after shaping to trap that gas and rise well before it loses its lift.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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