Why it works: Cinnamon and allspice match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 5,536 recipes. Both carry estragole, which smells anise, licorice. The science ↓
Fig Cake
Ingredients
Directions
The book gives no oven temperature. The 350°F (175°C) in the steps was added when the recipe was transcribed, as a starting point.
Prepare
Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C).
Make the white batter
In a bowl, cream together 2 cups sugar and ⅔ cup butter.
Add ⅜ cup sweet milk and 3 cups flour, mixing well.
Beat in the 8 egg whites until combined.
Divide the batter into two pans, each 1 inch deep.
Make the gold batter and fill
For the gold part, cream together 1 cup sugar and ¾ cup butter.
Mix in ½ cup sweet milk, 2 cups flour, 2 teaspoons baking powder, 8 egg yolks, 2 teaspoons cinnamon, and 1 teaspoon allspice.
Spread half of this batter in a pan, layer the sliced figs on top, then cover with the remaining batter.
Bake and assemble
Bake until golden and a toothpick comes out clean.
Once cooled, layer the cakes with icing and place the fig cake between the white layers.
Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.
Explore the science
The flavor team
The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.
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Cinnamon + allspicetop 1% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together5,536 recipes
Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).
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Cinnamon + figtop 4% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together614 recipes
Shared aroma: cinnamyl acetate (sweet aromatic, cinnamon).
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Butter + milktop 7% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together81,283 recipes
Shared aroma: (z)-4-heptenal (biscuit, cream).
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Allspice + figtop 8% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together182 recipes
Shared aroma: 2-methylbutyl acetate (fruit).
-
Flour + cinnamontop 9% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together17,341 recipes
Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).
Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs
What each ingredient does
- Flour
- Provides the structure that holds the cake's crumb together as it bakes.
- Butter
- Adds fat that gives the cake a tender, rich crumb and flavour.
- Eggs
- Add structure and richness, helping the batter set and hold its shape.
- Sugar
- Sweetens the batter and helps it brown and keep the crumb soft.
- Baking powder
- Releases gas in the batter, helping the cake rise and turn light.
- Figs
- Add moisture, sweetness and a soft, jammy texture between the layers.
The step that matters
Bake until golden and a toothpick comes out clean. Baking past the point of doneness dries out the crumb, while underbaking leaves a wet, gummy centre. The toothpick test shows when the starches have set and the batter is fully cooked through.
Swap the allspice
How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (sugar, butter, milk, egg, flour, cinnamon, fig):
- Nutmegfits better
- Cardamomfits better
- Clovefits about as well
- Allspicethe original
Fit is the average pairing score against sugar, butter, milk, egg, flour, cinnamon, fig. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.
“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.
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