Why it works: Milk and butter are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 7% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 81,283 recipes. Both carry (z)-4-heptenal, which smells biscuit, cream. The science ↓
Cooked Mayonnaise Dressing
Ingredients
Directions
In a bowl, mix the flour, mustard, and salt, mashing lumps smooth with the back of a spoon.
Slightly beat the yolks and mix them into the dry ingredients.
Add the melted butter while beating continuously.
Stir in the cold milk and cook over a pan of hot water, stirring slowly until the mixture coats the back of a spoon.
Remove from heat and stir in the hot vinegar.
If the mixture curdles, add 2 tablespoons of cold water and beat until smooth.
Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.
Explore the science
The flavor team
The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.
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Milk + buttertop 7% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together81,283 recipes
Shared aroma: (z)-4-heptenal (biscuit, cream).
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Mustard + vinegartop 7% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together14,067 recipes
Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).
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Flour + buttertop 12% of all pairsSmell alikelowCooked together124,287 recipes
Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).
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Mustard + flourtop 13% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together5,066 recipes
Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).
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Flour + milktop 14% of all pairsSmell alikelowCooked together78,219 recipes
Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).
Flour and butter barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 124,287 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.
Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs
What each ingredient does
- Eggs
- Yolks thicken the dressing as they cook and give it a rich, creamy body.
- Flour
- Starch thickens the mixture and helps keep it smooth and stable while cooking.
- Butter
- Melted fat adds richness and a smooth, velvety mouthfeel to the dressing.
- Milk
- Liquid that loosens the thickened base and adds mild sweetness and creaminess.
- Vinegar
- Adds acidity that gives the dressing its characteristic tang.
The step that matters
Cooking over hot water while stirring slowly. Egg yolks set at gentle heat, so cooking slowly over hot water thickens the base evenly. Too much heat curdles the yolks, which is why the recipe calls for adding cold water and beating if curdling starts.
Swap the mustard
How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (egg, flour, milk, sugar, butter, vinegar):
- Shallotfits about as well
- Capsicumfits about as well
- Chivefits about as well
- Mustardthe original
Fit is the average pairing score against egg, flour, milk, sugar, butter, vinegar. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.
“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.
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