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Dessert

To Make a Floating Island

A dessert of cream, Madeira wine, sugar, lemon rind, currant jelly, calf's foot jelly, candied meats, and myrtle sprigs.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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To Make a Floating Island

Why it works: Cream and sugar are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 9% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 43,450 recipes. Both carry 2,3-butanedione, which smells butter, sweet. The science ↓

To Make a Floating Island

Ingredients

Directions

Make the cream froth

  1. Grate the yellow rind of a lemon into a quart of cream.

  2. Add a large glass of Madeira wine and sweeten with loaf sugar.

  3. Mill the mixture with a chocolate mill until it forms a strong froth.

  4. Let it drain overnight on a sieve.

Layer and set

  1. Layer the froth in a deep glass dish.

  2. Roll in a sprig of myrtle to imitate snow.

  3. Cover with thinly diced currant jelly.

  4. Pour over fine strong calf's foot jelly until it looks like glass and is full to the brim.

  5. Let it stand until cold and stiff.

Decorate

  1. Top with rock candied sweet meats.

  2. Place green sprigs of myrtle on top.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Photo for illustrative purposes only · Contact us to use it

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Cream + sugartop 9% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together43,450 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2,3-butanedione (butter, sweet).

  2. Lemon + myrtletop 13% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together39 recipes

    Shared aroma: eucalyptol (eucalyptus, herbal).

  3. Sugar + lemontop 18% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together53,532 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).

  4. Cream + madeira winetop 18% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together146 recipes

    Shared aroma: ethanol (alcoholic, ethereal).

  5. Currant + myrtletop 19% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together16 recipes

    Shared aroma: alpha-pinene (pine, turpentine).

Sugar and lemon barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 53,532 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Cream
Whipped into a froth that forms the light, airy body of the dessert.
Calf's foot jelly
Gelatin-rich liquid that sets firm and clear, holding the layers together.
Madeira wine
Adds aromatic depth and flavour to the cream mixture.
Currant jelly
Adds fruity sweetness and a contrasting layer of flavour and colour.
Loaf sugar
Sweetens the cream so the froth tastes pleasantly sweet.

The step that matters

Milling the cream to a strong froth. Cream must be agitated enough to trap air and hold its shape. Under-beaten cream stays runny and collapses, while over-beating turns it grainy, so the froth needs careful control before draining.

Swap the currant

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (cream, madeira wine, sugar, lemon, meat, myrtle):

  1. Orangefits better
  2. Raspberryfits better
  3. Strawberryfits better
  4. Currantthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against cream, madeira wine, sugar, lemon, meat, myrtle. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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