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Dessert

Black Caps Par Excellence

Baked Norfolk biffin apples filled with lemon rind and candied orange peel, cooked in brown sugar and wine.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Lemon and orange match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 10,634 recipes. Both carry 3-hexenal, which smells apple, fruity. The science ↓

Black Caps Par Excellence

Oven, in the book's wordsA very hot oven

Ingredients

Directions

The book says “a very hot oven”. The 400°F in the steps is the modern equivalent, not the book's own figure.

Prepare

  1. Cut the biffins in half without peeling them.

  2. Scoop out the cores.

  3. Fill the cavities with thin strips of lemon rind and candied orange peel.

  4. Press the two halves of each apple together.

Assemble

  1. Cover the bottom of a flat shallow tin with a thick layer of brown sugar.

  2. Place the apples closely in the tin.

  3. Pour half a bottle of wine over the apples, moistening the tops.

  4. Sift white sugar thickly over the apples.

Bake

  1. Bake in a very hot oven (400°F / 200°C) until the outsides catch or become black.

  2. Reduce the heat and bake gently until the apples are soft throughout.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Lemon + orangetop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together10,634 recipes

    Shared aroma: 3-hexenal (apple, fruity).

  2. Orange + raisintop 13% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together1,684 recipes

    Shared aroma: beta-damascenone (apple, rose).

  3. Sugar + raisintop 13% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together12,481 recipes

    Shared aroma: beta-damascenone (apple, rose).

  4. Lemon + raisintop 14% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together3,742 recipes

    Shared aroma: decanal (soap, orange peel).

  5. Lemon + sugartop 18% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together53,532 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).

Lemon and sugar barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 53,532 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Norfolk biffins
Apples that hold their shape while softening, forming the body of the dish.
Pale brown sugar
Sweetens and forms a syrup with the wine and juices that glazes the apples.
Raisin or other sweet wine
Moistens the apples and mixes with the sugar to make a sweet, flavourful syrup.
Candied orange peel
Adds sweetness and a bitter-citrus aroma inside the apples.
Lemon rind
Adds aromatic oils that brighten the sweetness of the filling.

The step that matters

Bake in a very hot oven until the outsides blacken, then reduce the heat. The sugar caramelises and darkens at high heat, which gives the black caps their colour and flavour. Lowering the heat afterwards lets the interior soften through without burning the surface.

Swap the raisin

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (lemon, orange, sugar):

  1. Limefits better
  2. Vanillafits better
  3. Blueberryfits better
  4. Raisinthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against lemon, orange, sugar. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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