Why it works: Sugar and syrup match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 6% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 5,842 recipes. Both carry ethanol, which smells alcoholic, ethereal. The science ↓
Cabinet Pudding
Ingredients
Directions
Prepare the mold
Butter a pudding mold and garnish with stoned raisins, sliced citron peel, and dried cherries.
Fill the mold with alternate layers of sponge cakes, ratafias, macaroons, and the fruits.
Make the custard
In a bowl, mix the yolks of 6 eggs, 2 whole eggs, sugar, milk, sherry or madeira, and grated lemon rind to make an uncooked custard.
Pour the custard into the mold over the layered ingredients.
Cook and serve
Simmer the pudding in nearly boiling water, ensuring it does not boil.
Once done, turn it out and serve with ½ pint of syrup flavored with sherry or madeira.
Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.
Explore the science
The flavor team
The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.
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Sugar + syruptop 6% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together5,842 recipes
Shared aroma: ethanol (alcoholic, ethereal).
-
Butter + milktop 7% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together81,283 recipes
Shared aroma: (z)-4-heptenal (biscuit, cream).
-
Raisin + sugartop 13% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together12,481 recipes
Shared aroma: beta-damascenone (apple, rose).
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Butter + sherrytop 14% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together3,505 recipes
Shared aroma: ethyl octanoate (fruity, wine).
-
Milk + sherrytop 14% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together1,479 recipes
Shared aroma: 2,3,5-trimethylpyrazine (cocoa, roasted).
Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs
What each ingredient does
- Eggs
- Set the custard and give the pudding its firm, sliceable structure as they cook.
- Sponge cakes
- Form the absorbent body of the pudding that soaks up the custard.
- Sugar
- Sweetens the custard and balances the richness of the eggs and milk.
- Milk
- Provides the liquid base of the custard, giving it a soft, tender texture.
- Sherry or madeira
- Adds aroma and a fortified wine flavor to the custard and syrup.
The step that matters
Simmer below boiling. Egg custard becomes grainy and spongy when it boils, because the proteins tighten too far and squeeze out water. Gentle, nearly boiling water cooks it evenly into a smooth, set custard.
Swap the lemon
How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (butter, raisin, egg, sugar, milk, sherry, syrup):
- Vanillafits better
- Figfits better
- Applefits better
- Lemonthe original
Fit is the average pairing score against butter, raisin, egg, sugar, milk, sherry, syrup. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.
“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.
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