Why it works: Butter and milk are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 7% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 81,283 recipes. Both carry (z)-4-heptenal, which smells biscuit, cream. The science ↓
Petites Condoles a I’Anchois.
Ingredients
Directions
The book gives no oven temperature. The 350°F (175°C) in the steps was added when the recipe was transcribed, as a starting point.
Make the pastry
Mix the flour and 1½ ounces of butter until fine.
Add the anchovy essence, cochineal, cayenne, and 1 beaten egg; work into a stiff paste.
Roll out the paste thinly and line buttered boat-shaped moulds.
Trim the edges, prick with a fork, and fill the moulds three-quarters full with the filling.
Make the filling
In a saucepan, combine cornflour and milk; stir over heat until boiling.
Add 2 egg yolks and let cool slightly.
Whip 1 egg white to stiff peaks and whip the cream.
Mix the anchovy essence, cayenne, and chopped anchovies with the cornflour mixture; fold in the cream and egg white.
Bake and serve
Fill the moulds and sprinkle with breadcrumbs.
Bake in a 350°F (175°C) oven for about 15 minutes.
Serve on a hot dish with a folded napkin or dish paper.
Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.
Explore the science
The flavor team
The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.
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Butter + milktop 7% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together81,283 recipes
Shared aroma: (z)-4-heptenal (biscuit, cream).
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Butter + creamtop 8% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together41,516 recipes
Shared aroma: delta-dodecalactone (sweet, creamy).
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Flour + buttertop 12% of all pairsSmell alikelowCooked together124,287 recipes
Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).
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Anchovy + eggtop 12% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together2,330 recipes
Shared aroma: decanal (soap, orange peel).
-
Butter + anchovytop 13% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together3,697 recipes
Shared aroma: decanal (soap, orange peel).
Flour and butter barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 124,287 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.
Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs
What each ingredient does
- Flour
- Forms the structure of the pastry shells that hold the filling.
- Butter
- Adds richness and tenderness to the pastry, helping it stay short and crumbly.
- Eggs
- Bind the pastry and, as yolks and whipped white, set and lighten the filling.
- Cornflour
- Thickens the milk into a smooth base that gives the filling body.
- Cream
- Adds richness and a softer, lighter texture to the filling when folded in.
- Anchovies
- Provide the main salty, savoury flavour of the filling.
The step that matters
Folding in the cream and egg white. Whipped cream and egg white hold air that gives the filling lightness. Overmixing deflates them, so the moulds bake up dense instead of light.
“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.
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