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Walnut Catsup

A sauce made by simmering walnut shells, salt, and spices.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Allspice and clove match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 7,874 recipes. Both carry estragole, which smells anise, licorice. The science ↓

Walnut Catsup

Ingredients

Directions

Prepare the brine

  1. Mix green walnut shells with coarse sea salt in a tub.

  2. Let them sit for 2-3 days, stirring occasionally until they turn black.

Make the ketchup

  1. Press out the liquid and simmer it in an iron pot until scum forms, removing the scum as it appears.

  2. Bruise ¼ pound each of ginger and allspice, and 2 ounces each of long pepper and cloves.

  3. Boil the spices with the liquid for 30 minutes.

  4. When cold, bottle the catsup.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Allspice + clovetop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together7,874 recipes

    Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).

  2. Ginger + clovetop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together6,038 recipes

    Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).

  3. Ginger + allspicetop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together2,620 recipes

    Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).

  4. Pepper + clovetop 5% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together17,451 recipes

    Shared aroma: ethyl octanoate (fruity, wine).

  5. Allspice + peppertop 5% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together6,395 recipes

    Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Green walnut shells
Provide the bitter, dark-coloring liquid that forms the base of the ketchup.
Coarse sea salt
Draws liquid out of the shells and acts as a preservative during the sitting period.
Spices (ginger, allspice, long pepper, cloves)
Add aroma and warmth, flavoring the liquid as it boils.

The step that matters

Removing the scum while simmering. Impurities and proteins rise to the surface as the liquid heats. Skimming them as they form keeps the ketchup clear and prevents off flavors from returning into the liquid.

Swap the walnut

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (ginger, allspice, pepper, clove):

  1. Chickpeafits better
  2. Walnutthe original
  3. Beansfits about as well
  4. Cashew nutfits about as well

Fit is the average pairing score against ginger, allspice, pepper, clove. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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