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Dessert

Swiss Roll

A rolled sponge cake filled with jam, dusted with caster sugar.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Butter and flour are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 12% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 124,287 recipes. Both carry isobutyraldehyde, which smells malty, green. The science ↓

Swiss Roll

Oven, in the book's wordsA quick oven

Ingredients

Directions

The book says “a quick oven”. The 400°F (200°C) in the steps is the modern equivalent, not the book's own figure.

Prepare the batter

  1. Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C).

  2. Separate the egg whites and yolks.

  3. Beat the yolks and warm the butter.

  4. Mix the sugar with the butter and beat until creamy.

  5. Add the yolks.

  6. Whip the egg whites to stiff peaks and gently fold them into the mixture.

  7. Sift in the flour gradually and add lemon juice. Mix thoroughly.

Bake and roll

  1. Butter a baking dish and pour in the mixture to about ½ inch deep.

  2. Bake for 8 minutes.

  3. Spread a sheet of white paper on a table and dust it with caster sugar.

  4. Turn the baked cake onto the sugared paper, spread jam over it, and roll it up quickly while hot.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Butter + flourtop 12% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together124,287 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

  2. Sugar + flourtop 15% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together92,116 recipes

    Shared aroma: phenylacetaldehyde (hawthorne, honey).

  3. Egg + flourtop 15% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together106,462 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

  4. Butter + lemontop 16% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together41,227 recipes

    Shared aroma: 3-hexenal (apple, fruity).

  5. Flour + lemontop 17% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together30,404 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

Butter and flour barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 124,287 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Eggs
Whipped whites give the sponge its light, airy structure, while the yolks add richness and set.
Butter
Adds fat and richness, giving the sponge a tender crumb and a rich flavour.
Caster sugar
Beaten with butter to trap air, and adds sweetness and helps browning.
Flour
Provides the structure that holds the sponge together once baked.

The step that matters

Rolling the cake while hot. A hot sponge is pliable and bends without cracking. Once it cools, the starch and set egg structure stiffen, so it splits when rolled.

Swap the lemon

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (egg, butter, sugar, flour):

  1. Raisinfits better
  2. Vanillafits better
  3. Figfits about as well
  4. Lemonthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against egg, butter, sugar, flour. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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