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Dessert

Modern Cookery

A baked rice pudding made with milk, butter, sugar, lemon rind, and topped with a fruit compote.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Milk and butter are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 7% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 81,283 recipes. Both carry (z)-4-heptenal, which smells biscuit, cream. The science ↓

Modern Cookery

Oven, in the book's wordsA brisk oven

Ingredients

Directions

The book says “a brisk oven”. The 400°F (200°C) in the steps is the modern equivalent, not the book's own figure.

Make the rice

  1. Cook the rice in the milk until tender.

  2. Scrape the sugar rubbed on the lemon rind into the rice before removing from heat.

Mould and bake

  1. Butter a decorative tin mold thoroughly.

  2. Press the hot rice into the mold and smooth the surface.

  3. Let it cool.

  4. If using a plain mold, dip it in hot water to loosen the pudding.

  5. Turn out the rice and mark a rim about 1 inch wide on top with a knife.

  6. Brush clarified butter over the entire pudding.

  7. Bake in a brisk oven at 400°F (200°C) until golden brown.

Serve

  1. Carefully raise the cover where marked and scoop out the rice, leaving a 1-inch thick crust.

  2. Fill the crust with warmed preserved fruit or compote.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Milk + buttertop 7% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together81,283 recipes

    Shared aroma: (z)-4-heptenal (biscuit, cream).

  2. Rice + milktop 7% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together7,374 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).

  3. Rice + lemontop 12% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together4,366 recipes

    Shared aroma: (e,e)-2,4-decadienal (fatty, deep fried).

  4. Milk + plumtop 13% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together406 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2,4-decadienal (seaweed).

  5. Lemon + plumtop 14% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together623 recipes

    Shared aroma: eucalyptol (eucalyptus, herbal).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Rice
Forms the body of the pudding, setting firm as it cooks and cools.
Milk
Cooks the rice into a creamy, tender base and adds richness.
Fresh butter
Adds fat for richness and helps the surface brown in the oven.
Sugar
Adds sweetness and balances the flavour of the milk and lemon.
Lemon rind
Adds aromatic citrus oils that scent the sugar and rice.

The step that matters

Raise the cover without breaking the crust. The pudding must be fully cool and firm before the marked lid is lifted. If it is still warm or soft, the rice will tear and the crust will not hold its shape around the filling.

Swap the plum

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (rice, milk, butter, sugar, lemon):

  1. Vanillafits better
  2. Coconutfits better
  3. Figfits better
  4. Plumthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against rice, milk, butter, sugar, lemon. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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