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Dessert

Black Caps Par Excellence

Baked apples filled with lemon rind, candied orange peel, and sweet wine, topped with brown and white sugar.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Lemon and orange match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 10,634 recipes. Both carry 3-hexenal, which smells apple, fruity. The science ↓

Black Caps Par Excellence

Oven, in the book's wordsA very hot oven

Ingredients

Directions

The book says “a very hot oven”. The 400°F in the steps is the modern equivalent, not the book's own figure.

Prepare the apples

  1. Cut the biffins in half without peeling them.

  2. Scoop out the cores of the apple halves.

  3. Fill the cavities with thin strips of lemon rind and candied orange peel.

  4. Press the two halves of each apple together.

Assemble in the tin

  1. Cover the bottom of a flat shallow tin with a thick layer of brown sugar.

  2. Place the pressed apples closely in the tin.

  3. Pour the wine over the apples, ensuring to moisten the tops.

  4. Sift white sugar thickly on top of the apples.

Bake

  1. Bake in a very hot oven (400°F/200°C) until the outsides catch or become black.

  2. Reduce the heat.

  3. Bake gently until the apples are soft throughout.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Lemon + orangetop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together10,634 recipes

    Shared aroma: 3-hexenal (apple, fruity).

  2. Apple + orangetop 7% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together2,230 recipes

    Shared aroma: beta-damascenone (apple, rose).

  3. Orange + raisintop 13% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together1,684 recipes

    Shared aroma: beta-damascenone (apple, rose).

  4. Apple + raisintop 13% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together1,920 recipes

    Shared aroma: beta-damascenone (apple, rose).

  5. Sugar + raisintop 13% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together12,481 recipes

    Shared aroma: beta-damascenone (apple, rose).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Biffins or other firm apples
Firm flesh holds its shape during long baking while the interior softens.
Pale brown sugar
Forms a syrup with the wine and sweetens the apples as it melts and caramelises.
Sweet wine
Adds moisture and sweetness, and its liquid cooks down into a syrup around the apples.
Candied orange peel
Adds concentrated sweetness and citrus aroma that perfumes the apple cavities.
Lemon rind
Adds bright aromatic oils that balance the sweetness of the sugar and wine.

The step that matters

Browning the outsides before reducing the heat. A very hot start caramelises the sugar on the exposed apple skins for colour and flavour. Lowering the heat afterward lets the centres soften through without the outside burning.

Swap the raisin

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (apple, lemon, orange, sugar):

  1. Cranberryfits better
  2. Pearfits better
  3. Figfits better
  4. Raisinthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against apple, lemon, orange, sugar. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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