Skip to main content
Dessert

Barley-sugar

A candied sugar confection made with refined sugar, water, egg white, lemon juice, and optional lemon essence.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
Jump to recipe ↓

Why it works: Lemon and butter are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 16% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 41,227 recipes. Both carry 3-hexenal, which smells apple, fruity. The science ↓

Barley-sugar

Oven, in the book's wordsA very gentle oven

Ingredients

Directions

Make the syrup

  1. In a large pot, combine the sugar and spring water.

  2. Add enough egg white to clarify the mixture.

  3. Heat until it begins to whiten and thicken.

  4. Stir in the lemon juice and boil quickly until it reaches the desired consistency.

  5. Optionally, add a few drops of essence of lemon just before removing from heat.

Shape and set

  1. Pour the mixture onto a marble slab or a shallow dish greased with butter.

  2. When it starts to harden at the edges, shape it into sticks, lozenges, or balls.

  3. If it cools too quickly, place the vessel in a pan of water and gently reheat to liquefy.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Lemon + buttertop 16% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together41,227 recipes

    Shared aroma: 3-hexenal (apple, fruity).

  2. Egg + buttertop 17% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together118,967 recipes

    Shared aroma: decanal (soap, orange peel).

  3. Sugar + buttertop 17% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together98,233 recipes

    Shared aroma: guaiacol (smoky, sweet).

  4. Sugar + lemontop 18% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together53,532 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).

  5. Egg + lemontop 19% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together44,316 recipes

    Shared aroma: (e,e)-2,4-decadienal (fatty, deep fried).

Sugar and lemon barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 53,532 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Highly-refined sugar
Forms the bulk of the candy and sets into a hard, glassy structure as it cools.
Spring water
Dissolves the sugar so it can be evenly heated and concentrated into syrup.
Egg white
Binds to impurities in the syrup and rises to be skimmed off, clarifying the candy.
Lemon juice
Adds acidity that helps prevent the sugar from crystallising.

The step that matters

Boiling to the desired consistency. Sugar candy hardens as its concentration rises, so boiling too little leaves it sticky and boiling too long can scorch it or make it brittle. Watching the mixture closely as it thickens matters.

Swap the lemon

The recipe marks lemon as optional. How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (sugar, egg, butter):

  1. Vanillafits better
  2. Lemonthe original
  3. Raisinfits about as well
  4. Figfits about as well

Fit is the average pairing score against sugar, egg, butter. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

More barley sugar recipes

You might also like