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Tonbridge Brawn

A preserved pig head, ears, and feet seasoned with spices and boiled in a broth.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
From a historical cookbook (Internet Archive) · 15 ingredients
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Why it works: Nutmeg and clove match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 8,686 recipes. Both carry estragole, which smells anise, licorice. The science ↓

Tonbridge Brawn

Ingredients

Directions

Cure the head

  1. Split open the pig's head and remove the brain and bones.

  2. Strew the inside with coarse sea salt.

  3. Let it drain overnight.

  4. Clean the ears and feet.

  5. Wipe off the brine.

  6. Place them in a large pan.

  7. Rub the ears and feet with saltpetre mixed with sugar.

  8. After 12 hours, add salt.

  9. Pour vinegar over the ears and feet.

  10. Turn them in the pickle every 24 hours for a week.

  11. Wash off the brine.

Prepare the meat

  1. Boil the ears and feet for about 1½ hours.

  2. Bone the feet while warm.

  3. Trim the gristle from the ears.

  4. Mix grated nutmeg, mace, cayenne, and cloves.

  5. Wash the head without soaking, then wipe it.

  6. Flatten it on a board.

  7. Cut some flesh from the thickest parts.

  8. Season the meat with spices.

  9. Intermix the head meat with the ears and feet.

Roll and cook

  1. Roll it tightly.

  2. Bind with tape.

  3. Wrap in a thin pudding cloth.

  4. Tie securely at both ends.

  5. Place in a braising pan or suitable vessel with bones, herbs, onions, celery, carrots, peppercorns, and enough cold water to cover.

  6. Boil gently for 4 hours.

  7. Let cool in the liquid.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Nutmeg + clovetop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together8,686 recipes

    Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).

  2. Nutmeg + macetop 4% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together6,557 recipes

    Shared aroma: myristicin (spice, warm).

  3. Pepper + clovetop 5% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together17,451 recipes

    Shared aroma: ethyl octanoate (fruity, wine).

  4. Pepper + celerytop 5% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together16,012 recipes

    Shared aroma: 4'-methylacetophenone (bitter almond).

  5. Clove + celerytop 6% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together4,668 recipes

    Shared aroma: gamma-decalactone (peach, creamy).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Pig's head
Forms the bulk of the brawn, with its meat setting into a sliceable jelly as it cools.
Saltpetre
Gives the cured meat its pink colour and helps preserve it during the long cure.
Coarse sea salt
Draws out moisture and preserves the meat during curing.
Sugar
Balances the salt and softens the sharpness of the cure.
Vinegar
Adds acidity to the pickle, helping preserve the ears and feet.
Celery
Adds aromatic flavour to the cooking liquid that the meat absorbs.

The step that matters

Boiling gently for 4 hours. A gentle simmer keeps the meat tender and lets collagen from the bones and skin break down into gelatin, which sets the brawn. A hard boil can toughen the meat and cloud the jelly.

Swap the mace

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (sugar, vinegar, nutmeg, pepper, clove, onion, celery):

  1. Cinnamonfits better
  2. Allspicefits better
  3. Cardamomfits better
  4. Macethe original

Fit is the average pairing score against sugar, vinegar, nutmeg, pepper, clove, onion, celery. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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