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Dessert

Barley Sugar

A candied sugar made by boiling refined sugar with lemon juice and essence until cracked, then cut into stripes.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Sugar and lemon are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 18% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 53,532 recipes. Both carry 2-nonenal, which smells fatty, green. The science ↓

Barley Sugar

Ingredients

Directions

Make the sugar

  1. Clarify the sugar by boiling it until it reaches the cracked stage.

  2. Test the sugar by dipping a spoon into it and then into cold water; it should appear brittle.

  3. Add the lemon juice and lemon essence, then let it boil for a minute or two.

Shape and store

  1. Prepare a marble slab or smooth stone greased with sweet oil.

  2. Pour the sugar onto the slab, cut it into long stripes with scissors, and twist slightly.

  3. Allow the sugar to cool and store it in tin boxes or canisters away from air.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Sugar + lemontop 18% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together53,532 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).

Sugar and lemon barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 53,532 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Refined sugar
Forms the brittle glassy candy structure as it boils to the cracked stage.
Lemon juice
Adds acidity that brightens the flavour and helps prevent crystallisation.

The step that matters

Testing the cracked stage. Sugar taken too far turns bitter and dark, while stopping early leaves it sticky instead of brittle. The cold-water test shows when the sugar has reached the hard, brittle stage needed for the candy to set firm.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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