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Dessert

Snow Drifts

A gelatin dessert flavored with lemon, sweetened with sugar, topped with beaten egg whites, served with a custard of egg yolks and milk.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Lemon and milk are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 15% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 19,053 recipes. Both carry 2-nonenal, which smells fatty, green. The science ↓

Snow Drifts

Ingredients

Directions

Make the gelatin

  1. Dissolve the gelatin in boiling water.

  2. Mix the lemon juice and sugar together.

  3. Add the lemon-sugar mixture to the gelatin.

  4. Pour the mixture into a mold and let it cool but not completely set.

Prepare the egg whites

  1. Beat the egg whites until stiff.

  2. Sweeten and flavor the beaten egg whites.

  3. Float the sweetened egg whites in boiling milk for about 1 minute.

Assemble and chill

  1. Remove the gelatin from the mold and place it in cold water.

  2. Using a fork, break the gelatin into bits without liquefying it.

  3. Add spoonfuls of the broken gelatin and the beaten egg whites back into the mold, filling it with the softened gelatin.

  4. Let it cool completely.

Make the custard and serve

  1. Make custard from the yolks of the eggs and 1 pint of milk.

  2. Serve the dessert on a dish surrounded by the custard.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Lemon + milktop 15% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together19,053 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).

  2. Lemon + sugartop 18% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together53,532 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).

  3. Egg + milktop 18% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together88,785 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).

  4. Sugar + milktop 18% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together77,875 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).

  5. Lemon + eggtop 19% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together44,316 recipes

    Shared aroma: (e,e)-2,4-decadienal (fatty, deep fried).

Lemon and sugar barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 53,532 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Gelatin
Provides the structure that lets the dessert set and hold its shape when chilled.
Lemon juice
Adds a sharp acidity that balances the sweetness and gives the dessert its flavor.
Sugar
Sweetens the dessert and balances the sourness of the lemon juice.
Egg whites
Whipped into a foam that lightens the texture and adds airy structure.
Egg yolks
Thicken and enrich the custard as they set with gentle heat.
Milk
Forms the creamy base of the custard and gently poaches the egg whites.

The step that matters

Break the gelatin without liquefying it. Gelatin must be partly set for its pieces to hold their shape. If it is warm enough to melt again, it turns back into liquid and loses the bits that give the dessert its texture.

Swap the lemon

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (sugar, egg, milk):

  1. Vanillafits better
  2. Figfits about as well
  3. Raisinfits about as well
  4. Lemonthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against sugar, egg, milk. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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