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To Preserve Oranges or Lemons in Jelly

A method for preserving oranges or lemons by encasing them in a sugar syrup and jelly.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Orange and lemon match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 10,634 recipes. Both carry 3-hexenal, which smells apple, fruity. The science ↓

To Preserve Oranges or Lemons in Jelly

Ingredients

Directions

Prepare the fruit

  1. Cut a hole the size of a shilling in the stalk of each orange or lemon.

  2. Scrape out the pulp without cutting the rind.

  3. Tie each fruit in muslin.

  4. Soak in spring water for two days, changing the water twice a day.

Make the syrup and cook the fruit

  1. Boil the fruit in water until tender over low heat.

  2. Weigh two pounds of sugar and one pint of water for every pound of fruit.

  3. Boil the mixture with the juice of the orange to make a syrup.

  4. Skim the syrup.

  5. Let the syrup cool.

  6. Boil the fruit in the syrup for half an hour.

  7. Repeat daily until clear.

Make the apple jelly

  1. Pare and core green pippins.

  2. Boil them in water until strong in flavor.

  3. Strain through a jelly bag until clear.

  4. Add a pound of sugar and the peel and juice of a lemon to each pint of the strained liquid.

  5. Boil to a strong syrup.

Finish and preserve

  1. Drain the syrup from the fruit.

  2. Place each orange or lemon hole-up in a jar.

  3. Pour the apple jelly over them.

  4. Cover with brandy paper.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Orange + lemontop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together10,634 recipes

    Shared aroma: 3-hexenal (apple, fruity).

  2. Orange + brandytop 15% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together2,706 recipes

    Shared aroma: beta-damascenone (apple, rose).

  3. Sugar + lemontop 18% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together53,532 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).

  4. Sugar + brandytop 19% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together11,939 recipes

    Shared aroma: beta-damascenone (apple, rose).

  5. Orange + sugartop 20% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together19,212 recipes

    Shared aroma: beta-damascenone (apple, rose).

Sugar and lemon barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 53,532 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Oranges or lemons
The whole fruit is preserved, and its rind becomes tender and translucent as it cooks in syrup.
Double-refined sugar
Sugar draws water out of the fruit and builds a syrup that preserves it and gives sweetness.
Green pippins
Pippin apples are rich in pectin, which helps the liquid set into a clear jelly.
Lemon juice
Acidity helps pectin set and brightens the flavor of the jelly.

The step that matters

Repeated boiling of the fruit in syrup until clear. Sugar must replace the water in the fruit slowly. Boiling for a short time each day lets the syrup penetrate without breaking down the rind, so the fruit turns clear rather than collapsing.

Swap the lemon

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (orange, sugar, brandy):

  1. Vanillafits better
  2. Apricotfits better
  3. Figfits about as well
  4. Lemonthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against orange, sugar, brandy. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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