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Dessert

Black Caps Par Excellence

Baked biffin apples with lemon rind, candied orange peel, sugar, and sweet wine.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Lemon and orange match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 10,634 recipes. Both carry 3-hexenal, which smells apple, fruity. The science ↓

Black Caps Par Excellence

Oven, in the book's wordsA very hot oven

Ingredients

Directions

The book says “a very hot oven”. The 400°F in the steps is the modern equivalent, not the book's own figure.

Prepare the apples

  1. Cut the biffins in half without peeling them and scoop out the cores.

  2. Fill the cavities with thin strips of fresh lemon rind and candied orange peel.

  3. Press the two halves of each apple together and place them closely in the tin.

Add the sugar and wine

  1. Cover the bottom of a flat shallow tin with a thick layer of fine pale brown sugar.

  2. Pour half a bottle of sweet wine over the apples, ensuring the tops are moistened.

  3. Sift white sugar thickly over the apples.

Bake and serve

  1. Bake in a very hot oven (400°F / 200°C) until the outsides catch or become black.

  2. Then reduce the heat and bake gently until the apples are soft throughout.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Lemon + orangetop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together10,634 recipes

    Shared aroma: 3-hexenal (apple, fruity).

  2. Orange + raisintop 13% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together1,684 recipes

    Shared aroma: beta-damascenone (apple, rose).

  3. Sugar + raisintop 13% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together12,481 recipes

    Shared aroma: beta-damascenone (apple, rose).

  4. Lemon + raisintop 14% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together3,742 recipes

    Shared aroma: decanal (soap, orange peel).

  5. Lemon + sugartop 18% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together53,532 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).

Lemon and sugar barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 53,532 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Norfolk biffins
Dried apples that soften into a tender, sweet filling during slow baking.
Fine pale brown sugar
Sweetens the dish and melts into a syrup that caramelises against the apples.
Sweet wine
Moistens the apples and adds sweetness and aroma as it cooks down into the syrup.
Candied orange peel
Adds sweet, bitter-edged citrus flavour inside the cored apples.

The step that matters

Bake in a very hot oven until the outsides catch. Searing the outside browns the sugar and fruit surfaces for flavour, but if the heat is too low or too long the apples dry out before they soften. Switching to gentle heat afterward lets the centres cook through evenly.

Swap the raisin

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (lemon, orange, sugar):

  1. Limefits better
  2. Vanillafits better
  3. Blueberryfits better
  4. Raisinthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against lemon, orange, sugar. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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