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Barley-sugar

A candied sugar made with barley, water, egg white, and lemon.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Sugar and lemon are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 18% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 53,532 recipes. Both carry 2-nonenal, which smells fatty, green. The science ↓

Barley-sugar

Oven, in the book's wordsA very gentle oven

Ingredients

Directions

Make the syrup

  1. Combine sugar and spring water in a pot.

  2. Add egg white to clarify the mixture.

  3. Boil until it begins to whiten and thickens.

  4. Stir in lemon juice and boil quickly until ready.

Shape and store

  1. Pour onto a lightly oiled marble slab or shallow dish.

  2. When edges harden, shape into sticks, lozenges, or balls.

  3. If needed, reheat gently in a water bath to liquefy.

  4. Store in dry canisters to prevent moisture.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Sugar + lemontop 18% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together53,532 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).

  2. Egg + lemontop 19% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together44,316 recipes

    Shared aroma: (e,e)-2,4-decadienal (fatty, deep fried).

  3. Sugar + eggtop 21% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together122,807 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).

Sugar and lemon barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 53,532 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Sugar
Forms the body of the candy as it cools into a hard, glassy sugar mass.
Egg white
Helps clarify the syrup, collecting impurities so the candy is clear.
Lemon juice
Adds acidity that brightens flavour and helps limit sugar crystallisation.

The step that matters

Boil until it begins to whiten and thickens. Sugar must reach the right concentration to set hard when cooled. Under-boiled syrup stays sticky, while overheating can scorch the sugar and give a bitter taste.

Swap the lemon

The recipe marks lemon as optional. How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (sugar, egg):

  1. Vanillafits better
  2. Raisinfits about as well
  3. Lemonthe original
  4. Datesfits less well

Fit is the average pairing score against sugar, egg. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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