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Calf S Head Brawn

A preserved calf head brawn cured with salt, saltpetre, treacle, and smoked.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Calf S Head Brawn

Ingredients

Directions

Prepare the head

  1. Remove the brains and bone the calf's head or have the butcher do it.

  2. Rub a little fine salt over the head and let it drain for 10-12 hours.

Cure

  1. Wipe it dry and rub it with the saltpetre mixed with the common salt and bay salt.

  2. Turn the head daily in the pickle for 4-5 days, rubbing it each time.

  3. Pour 4 ounces of treacle over it and continue to turn it daily, basting with the brine for a month.

  4. Hang it up to drain overnight, then wrap it in brown paper and smoke it for 3-4 weeks.

Cook and serve

  1. When ready to serve, wash and scrape it clean without soaking.

  2. Place it in a saucepan, cover with cold water, and heat slowly.

  3. Skim thoroughly when it begins to simmer, then boil gently for 1 hour and 45 minutes to 2 hours until tender.

  4. Pour off excess water, leaving just enough to cover the gelatinous part, and simmer until tender.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

What each ingredient does

Saltpetre
Cures the meat and gives it a pink colour and cured flavour.
Coarse sea salt
Draws out moisture and seasons the head during the cure.
Treacle
Adds sweetness and colour to the cured surface.

The step that matters

Skim thoroughly when it begins to simmer. Removing the foam that rises as the head heats keeps the broth clear and stops impurities from clouding the set brawn. Gentle simmering keeps the meat tender rather than tough.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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