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Brawn, to Collar

A boiled pig head, feet, and ears with ox heels, seasoned with sea salt and saltpetre.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Brawn, to Collar

Ingredients

Directions

Prepare

  1. Wash and clean the pig's head, feet, and ears thoroughly.

  2. Soak them in a brine made with water and coarse sea salt for at least 12 hours.

Cook

  1. To enlarge the collar, boil the ox heels with the head, feet, and ears until the bones can be easily removed.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

What each ingredient does

Pig's head
Provides the bulk of the meat and collagen that breaks down into gelatin to set the collar.
Pig's feet
Adds collagen-rich connective tissue, which turns to gelatin and helps the dish set when cooled.
Ox heels
Their bones release collagen into the cooking liquid, adding gelatin that helps the collar set firmly.
Coarse sea salt
Seasons the meat and draws moisture out and back in during the brine, firming its texture.

The step that matters

Boil until the bones just release. Collagen turns into gelatin during slow, gentle simmering. Boiling hard makes the liquid cloudy and can overcook the meat, so the bones should be removed as soon as they come away easily.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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