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Dessert

Plum-cakes

A sweet yeast cake with currants, raisins, almonds, spices, and candied citrus, baked for several hours.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Cinnamon and nutmeg match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 11,917 recipes. Both carry estragole, which smells anise, licorice. The science ↓

Plum-cakes

Oven, in the book's wordsA moderate oven

Ingredients

Directions

The book says “a moderate oven”. The 350°F (175°C) in the steps is the modern equivalent, not the book's own figure.

Prepare the batter

  1. Mix the flour and sugar thoroughly in a large bowl.

  2. Add the currants, raisins, spices, lemon peel, and almonds, and mix well.

  3. Melt the butter in the lukewarm cream, then stir in the sweet wine, brandy, rose-water, and beaten eggs.

  4. Gradually strain the liquid into the dry ingredients, beating the mixture for a full hour.

Bake and finish

  1. Butter a cake pan and pour in the batter, adding plenty of citron, lemon, and orange candy.

  2. Bake in a preheated oven at 350°F (175°C) for at least 4 hours.

  3. If icing the cake, pour the icing over when nearly cold and return it to the oven overnight to cool.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Cinnamon + nutmegtop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together11,917 recipes

    Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).

  2. Clove + cinnamontop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together14,189 recipes

    Shared aroma: ethyl cinnamate (sweet, balsamic).

  3. Clove + nutmegtop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together8,686 recipes

    Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).

  4. Flour + raisintop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together9,075 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

  5. Raisin + cinnamontop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together5,390 recipes

    Shared aroma: 1-octen-3-ol (mushroom, earthy).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Eggs
Bind the batter and add richness and structure as they set during baking.
Butter
Adds richness and tenderness and carries flavour through the crumb.
Fine flour
Forms the main structure of the cake as the batter sets in the oven.
Yeast
Helps the batter rise and gives the cake an airy, lighter crumb.
Loaf sugar
Sweetens the cake and helps brown the crust during baking.
Currants
Add fruitiness and moisture pockets throughout the cake.

The step that matters

Beating the batter for a full hour. Long beating works air into the batter and develops gluten in the flour, which shapes the crumb. Gradual straining keeps the liquid from lumping the dry ingredients, so the batter stays smooth and evenly textured.

Swap the currant

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (flour, sugar, raisin, mace, clove, cinnamon, nutmeg):

  1. Figfits better
  2. Vanillafits better
  3. Orangefits better
  4. Currantthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against flour, sugar, raisin, mace, clove, cinnamon, nutmeg. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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