Why it works: Cinnamon and nutmeg match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 11,917 recipes. Both carry estragole, which smells anise, licorice. The science ↓
Old-fa Shi on Ed Jumble S
Ingredients
Directions
The book says “a quick oven”. The 400°F (200°C) in the steps is the modern equivalent, not the book's own figure.
Make the first jumbles
Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C).
Beat the eggs with a pinch of salt in a bowl.
Add enough flour to form a stiff dough that can be rolled out thin.
Roll out the dough on a floured surface to 1/8 inch thick.
Cut the dough into shapes.
Place the shapes on shallow tins.
Dot the shapes with small lumps of butter.
Sprinkle the shapes with sugar.
Bake for 3 to 5 minutes until slightly browned.
Make the second jumbles
Cream together butter and powdered sugar.
Beat in the eggs.
Add rose-water, grated nutmeg, and flour to the mixture.
Roll out the mixture.
Cut into rings.
Remove the center of each ring.
Bake in a 350°F (175°C) oven until the edges brown slightly.
Brush the pastries with egg white.
Sprinkle with coarse sugar before serving.
Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.
Explore the science
The flavor team
The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.
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Cinnamon + nutmegtop 1% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together11,917 recipes
Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).
-
Flour + nutmegtop 8% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together18,623 recipes
Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).
-
Flour + cinnamontop 9% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together17,341 recipes
Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).
-
Sugar + cinnamontop 10% of all pairsSmell alikelowCooked together30,779 recipes
Shared aroma: guaiacol (smoky, sweet).
-
Flour + buttertop 12% of all pairsSmell alikelowCooked together124,287 recipes
Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).
Sugar and cinnamon barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 30,779 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.
Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs
What each ingredient does
- Eggs
- Bind the dough and add richness and structure to the pastry.
- Butter
- Adds richness and tenderness and helps the pastry brown in the oven.
- Flour
- Forms the structure of the dough so it can be rolled out and hold its shape.
- Powdered sugar
- Sweetens the dough and creams with butter to give a fine, tender texture.
- Rose-water
- Adds a delicate floral aroma to the dough.
The step that matters
Bake until only slightly browned. Jumbles are thin and dry out and darken quickly, so they should be removed once the edges just brown. Over-baking makes them hard and bitter.
“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.
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