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Dessert

Cabinet Pudding

A steamed pudding made with stale cake, raisins, candied fruit, eggs, milk, and sugar, baked in a water bath.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Peach and vanilla match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 558 recipes. Both carry beta-damascenone, which smells apple, rose. The science ↓

Cabinet Pudding

Ingredients

Directions

Prepare the mold

  1. Butter a quart mold well.

  2. Line the bottom with raisins, stoned, and citron and apricots cut in fancy shapes.

  3. Cover with slices of stale cake; add more raisins, citron, and apricots, alternating with cake, until within 1 inch of the top.

Make the custard

  1. Scald the milk.

  2. Beat the sugar and egg yolks until creamy.

  3. Pour the boiling milk carefully over the eggs, stirring briskly.

  4. Add vanilla or rum to taste.

  5. Pour this mixture into the mold over the cake.

  6. Cover the mold.

Bake and serve

  1. Set the mold in a pan; pour cold water into the pan to the height of the mold.

  2. Put the pan on the stove until the water comes to a boil; then transfer the pan to the oven and bake the pudding for 1 hour.

  3. When done, turn the pudding out of the mold and serve with wine sauce.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Peach + vanillatop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together558 recipes

    Shared aroma: beta-damascenone (apple, rose).

  2. Milk + vanillatop 5% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together19,187 recipes

    Shared aroma: ethyl caproate (fruity, apple peel).

  3. Sugar + vanillatop 8% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together35,032 recipes

    Shared aroma: beta-damascenone (apple, rose).

  4. Milk + peachtop 10% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together781 recipes

    Shared aroma: phellandrene (minty).

  5. Raisin + vanillatop 12% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together782 recipes

    Shared aroma: beta-damascenone (apple, rose).

Sugar and vanilla barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 35,032 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Egg yolks
Thicken the milk into a set custard that holds the cake and fruit together.
Milk
Forms the liquid base of the custard, providing moisture that cooks into a tender set.
Stale cake
Soaks up the custard, giving the pudding its body and a soft, absorbent texture.
Sugar
Sweetens the custard and helps the yolks beat into a smooth, creamy mixture.
Raisins
Add chewy sweetness and fruity pockets throughout the pudding.

The step that matters

Pouring the boiling milk over the eggs. Pouring the hot milk in slowly while stirring briskly gradually warms the yolks so they do not scramble into lumps. Cooking gently keeps the custard smooth and evenly set.

Swap the raisin

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (sugar, egg, milk, peach, vanilla):

  1. Figfits better
  2. Apricotfits better
  3. Blueberryfits better
  4. Raisinthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against sugar, egg, milk, peach, vanilla. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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