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Calf’s Liver, Larded, with Celery-puree

A larded calf liver braised with broth or wine, served over celery puree and finished with a brown sauce.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Carrot and celery match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 10,173 recipes. Both carry myristicin, which smells spice, warm. The science ↓

Calf’s Liver, Larded, with Celery-puree

Oven, in the book's wordsA slack oven

Ingredients

Directions

Prepare the liver

  1. Trim the calf's liver and lard its upper surface with bacon, leaving some space bare at both ends.

  2. Season the liver with coarse sea salt and spices.

  3. Place the liver in a stewpan lined with bacon trimmings and minced vegetables.

Braise

  1. Moisten the liver with broth or wine until just covered.

  2. Cover with a greased sheet of paper and set on a brisk fire until the moisture reduces by one third.

  3. Move the stewpan to a slow fire or a slack oven, adding hot embers on the lid if needed.

  4. Braise the liver, ensuring it does not run short of moisture.

  5. Once cooked, drain the liver and glaze it with a paste brush.

Make the sauce and serve

  1. Lighten the remaining liquid with a little wine or broth and boil for a few minutes.

  2. Thicken the sauce with brown sauce or kneaded butter.

  3. Serve the liver on a bed of celery puree and pour the sauce around it, passing it through a sieve.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Carrot + celerytop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together10,173 recipes

    Shared aroma: myristicin (spice, warm).

  2. Carrot + oniontop 6% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together21,601 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-isopropyl-3-methoxypyrazine (earthy, pea).

  3. Onion + celerytop 7% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together18,518 recipes

    Shared aroma: guaiacol (smoky, sweet).

  4. Liver + oniontop 15% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together1,420 recipes

    Shared aroma: furaneol (caramel, strawberry).

  5. Liver + carrottop 19% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together321 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Calf's liver
Is the main cooked element, becoming tender and moist through slow braising.
Bacon
Larding fat melts during braising, keeping the lean liver moist and adding savoury flavour.
Minced vegetables
Form a flavouring bed under the liver and add aromatic sweetness to the cooking liquid.
Broth or wine
Provides the moisture for braising and, reduced, forms the base of the sauce.
Brown sauce or kneaded butter
Thickens the reduced cooking liquid into a glossy, coating sauce.

The step that matters

Keeping the liver moist during braising. Liver is lean and dries out and toughens if the liquid runs low or the heat is too high. Keeping it just covered, with gentle heat, lets collagen and fat soften slowly and keeps the meat tender.

Swap the onion

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (liver, carrot, wine, sauce, celery):

  1. Tomatofits better
  2. Turnipfits better
  3. Mustardfits about as well
  4. Onionthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against liver, carrot, wine, sauce, celery. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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